From the terrace at Scrub Island Resort, the Sir Francis Drake Channel stretches west like a highway of flat turquoise. On the other end, roughly 30 miles away, lies Jost Van Dyke — home to the Soggy Dollar Bar and the original Painkiller cocktail. The British Virgin Islands were named the #1 Best Luxury Destination in the Caribbean for 2026 by Modern Luxury, and a multi-day island hop from Scrub Island to Jost Van Dyke is one of the best ways to see why.
This itinerary covers the full westbound route — seven days of sailing, snorkeling, and beach hopping that works for first-time charterers and experienced cruisers alike. The pacing is realistic enough for a family or a couple, with enough flexibility to skip a stop if the conditions or your energy levels say otherwise. A valid US passport is required for entry into the BVI, unlike the US Virgin Islands.
The BVI’s inter-island passages are among the most beautiful sailing waters on earth, and a westbound route from Scrub Island to Jost Van Dyke hits every iconic stop without backtracking.
This route is one of the best week-long island hops in the Caribbean — each day brings a different island character, from the granite boulders of Virgin Gorda to the flat coral atoll of Anegada to the beach bars of Jost Van Dyke. The catch: you need a charter boat or a willingness to use the inter-island ferries, and peak season (December–April) requires booking boats and moorings months ahead.
First-time charterers
Families with older kids
Couples wanting variety
| Day | Where | What | Time Needed | Key Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Scrub Island → Virgin Gorda | The Baths, Devil’s Bay, Saba Rock | Full day | Secure a mooring ball at Devil’s Bay by 10 a.m. — they fill fast |
| 2 | Virgin Gorda → Anegada | Loblolly Bay, Horseshoe Reef, Setting Point | Full day | The Anegada Express ferry runs Mon/Wed/Fri only from Road Town |
| 3 | Anegada → Trellis Bay, Tortola | Dog Islands snorkel, Aragorn’s Studio, full moon party | Full day | Check lunar dates — the Trellis Bay full moon party is worth planning around |
| 4 | Trellis Bay → Jost Van Dyke | Monkey Point snorkel, White Bay, Soggy Dollar Bar | Full day | The Soggy Dollar is cash-only for drinks |
| 5 | Jost Van Dyke → Norman Island | Smuggler’s Cove, Willie T floating bar, sea caves | Full day | The Willy T jump is cash-only — bring small bills |
| 6 | Norman Island → Brandywine Bay | Peter Island hike, Brandywine Estate dinner | Half-day + evening | Call ahead to reserve a mooring ball at Brandywine Bay |
| 7 | Brandywine Bay → Scrub Island | East End Bay, Scrub Island Resort farewell | Half-day | Book the resort spa in advance for the final afternoon |
Day 1: Scrub Island to Virgin Gorda — The Baths
Scrub Island sits just east of Tortola’s Beef Island, making it a natural launch point for a westbound trip. The morning sail through West South Bay toward Virgin Gorda’s southern tip takes about two hours in moderate conditions. The Baths, at the island’s southern end, are the BVI’s single most iconic natural formation — massive granite boulders form grottos, tide pools, and sun-dappled passages accessible only on foot and by water.
Arrive by 10 a.m. to grab one of the limited National Park moorings. Swim ashore directly to the trailhead. The Baths are free to enter — you only pay your ferry and taxi fare if coming from Road Town.
Crawl through the rock passages, swim through the grottos, and emerge on the small beach at Devil’s Bay. Allow 1.5–2 hours to see the full network. Lily spent a solid hour just climbing through the boulder maze — the tide pools kept her entertained while Michael and I took turns with the camera.
The restaurant and bar at the top of the Baths complex has basic Caribbean food, cold drinks, and a small shop. It’s the only food option on this side of Virgin Gorda, so plan accordingly.
Sail up the west coast of Virgin Gorda past the Dog Islands to Saba Rock, a private resort between Prickly Pear Island and Virgin Gorda. Anchor here for sunset cocktails or dinner. The views back across the channel are hard to beat.
If you’re traveling with kids who burn out on long beach days, skip Saba Rock and anchor instead at Leverick Bay on Virgin Gorda’s north coast — it has a protected bay, a small market, and a pool that’s open to day visitors.
Day 2: Virgin Gorda to Anegada — The Flat Island
Anegada is a geological outlier in the BVI — a flat coral atoll that rises only 28 feet above sea level, unlike the volcanic peaks of the other islands. It’s encircled by Horseshoe Reef, one of the largest barrier coral reefs in the Caribbean. The sail from Spanish Town takes about three hours in good conditions.
Sail up the west coast of Virgin Gorda, passing the Dog Islands. Use a mooring ball off Setting Point — the anchorage is shallow and sandy. If you’re on the BVI’s vibrant culture and nightlife track, note that Anegada is the quietest island by far.
The reef system stretches for miles and is accessible from the beach at Loblolly Bay. Snorkel gear is all you need — the coral starts just offshore. Look for sea turtles and rays in the sandy patches between the coral heads.
A short walk from the main road takes you to a lookout over the island’s interior ponds. Flamingos and rare ground iguanas are sometimes visible here — the best time is late afternoon when the heat drops.
Anegada is famous for its spiny lobster, and the restaurants around Setting Point serve it grilled, fried, or in stew. Expect to pay around $25–35 per person for a full lobster dinner. Cash is king here — cards are rarely accepted.
Day 3: Anegada to Trellis Bay, Tortola
The sail back south from Anegada to Tortola’s east end takes about two hours, with the Dog Islands offer a good midway stop for a snorkel break. Trellis Bay is a sheltered natural harbor with a lively evening scene, especially during the full moon.
The Dog Islands — Great Dog, Little Dog, and George Dog — have excellent snorkeling around coral bommies and rocky ledges. Anchor in the sandy patch between Great Dog and George Dog. Allow 1–2 hours.
Curve around Tortola’s east end into Trellis Bay. The anchorage is sheltered with dinghy docks. Note that some moorings were lost during Hurricane Irma, so plan to anchor rather than rely on a ball.
This beachfront spot serves burgers, grilled fish, and cold beer at reasonable prices. Jeremy’s Kitchen next door is another good option. Both are a short walk from the dinghy dock.
Aragorn Dick-Read’s studio and arts centre sells local pottery, paintings, and crafts. If you’re visiting during a full moon, the Trellis Bay full moon party — with fire dancers, drumming, and local food stalls — is worth planning your whole day around.
Day 4: Trellis Bay to White Bay, Jost Van Dyke
Jost Van Dyke is the westernmost of the main BVI islands, and White Bay is its crown jewel — a half-mile stretch of soft sand with a half-dozen beach bars. The sail from Trellis Bay takes about 2.5 hours, passing Little Camanoe and the Guana Island ecological preserve.
Monkey Point is the southernmost point of the Guana Island ecological preserve. Use a National Park mooring buoy — anchoring is prohibited. The snorkeling here is excellent: yellowtail snappers, grunts, and crevalle jacks in clear water. Allow 45 minutes.
The approach into White Bay is straightforward in good weather. Anchor in the sandy bottom off the beach — the holding is good. Dinghy ashore at the public dock near the Soggy Dollar Bar.
The Soggy Dollar Bar is the birthplace of the Painkiller cocktail — a blend of rum, pineapple, orange, coconut cream, and nutmeg. The name comes from the days when sailors would swim ashore and their dollar bills would be soggy. Cash-only for drinks, and a Painkiller runs around $10–12.
Several restaurants line White Bay, including Ivan’s and the Sandcastle (the Soggy Dollar’s hotel). Both serve grilled fish, lobster, and Caribbean staples. Book ahead at Sandcastle — it fills up quickly in peak season.
Day 5: Jost Van Dyke to Norman Island — Treasure Island
Norman Island is reputedly the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. It sits at the southern edge of the Sir Francis Drake Channel, about 7 miles from Jost Van Dyke. The sail south takes you past Smuggler’s Cove on Tortola’s west end, which is worth a stop for lunch.
Nigel’s Boom Boom Beach Bar and Grill sits on the beach at Smuggler’s Cove, a quiet bay on Tortola’s south coast. The food is simple — burgers, grilled chicken, rum punch — but the setting is relaxed and the swimming is good. Allow 1.5 hours.
The passage around Tortola’s West End and past Frenchman’s Cay is straightforward. Anchor in The Bight on Norman Island’s north side — a sheltered bay with a reef on the eastern edge.
The sea caves at Norman Island’s western tip are accessible by dinghy. Inside, the water glows turquoise from the sunlight filtering through underwater openings. Afterward, dinghy over to the Willie T floating bar — a converted schooner that serves drinks and has a famous jump from the upper deck. The jump is cash-only ($5 per person).
If you’re traveling with kids, the Willie T can get rowdy in the late afternoon — go early (around 2 p.m.) when it’s quieter and the jump is less intimidating.
Day 6: Norman Island to Brandywine Bay
Brandywine Bay sits on Tortola’s south coast, just east of Road Town. It’s a quiet anchorage with a single upscale restaurant that draws sailors from across the channel. The day starts with a stop at Peter Island, which has a fascinating abandoned history.
Little Harbour on the southeast side of Peter Island holds an abandoned cigar factory and 1920s-era mansions built by a Norwegian corporation. The buildings are in ruins now, but the history is intriguing. Anchor in the harbour and take the dinghy ashore. Allow 1 hour.
Cross the Sir Francis Drake Channel north to Brandywine Bay on Tortola’s south coast. The bay is sheltered and has a handful of mooring balls. Call ahead to reserve one — the bay is small and fills quickly, especially on weekends.
The restaurant sits on the hillside above the bay with panoramic views of the channel. The menu leans French-Caribbean — lobster thermidor and moules marinière are specialties. Entrees run $30–45. Make a reservation when you call for the mooring ball.
Day 7: Brandywine Bay to Scrub Island — Full Circle
The final day loops back to Scrub Island, completing the westbound circuit. The sail along Tortola’s southern coast passes Road Town, the capital, and East End Bay, where you can stop for a final swim and a cold beer before rounding the Bluff back to Scrub Island.
The eastward sail from Brandywine Bay passes Road Town’s harbour and the low-lying scrub of Tortola’s south shore. The wind is typically on the beam, making for a comfortable 2-hour sail.
East End Bay in Parham Town is a good spot for a final swim and a beer at one of the beachfront shacks. The bay is protected and the water is calm. Allow 1 hour.
The final leg rounds the Bluff at Tortola’s east end and enters the channel to Scrub Island. The resort has a marina with fuel, water, and laundry facilities — useful for cleaning up before the flight home.
Celebrate the week with rum cocktails on the terrace. If you have time, book a spa treatment in advance — the resort’s spa fills up quickly, especially on weekends. The resort also has a pool and several restaurants.
Practical Section: Logistics, Costs & What to Book Ahead
The BVI requires more advance planning than a typical beach trip. Here’s what to sort out before you arrive.
Getting Around: Charter or Ferry
The most flexible way to do this route is a bareboat charter from Scrub Island Marina or Tortola’s charter bases. If you’re not comfortable skippering yourself, multi-day sailing trips with a crew are available through several operators. Ferry options exist between most islands — Speedy’s runs from Road Town to Virgin Gorda daily except Sunday, and New Horizons runs from West End to Jost Van Dyke daily — but they’re limited on Sundays and holidays, and they don’t run to Anegada daily.
When to Go
Peak sailing season runs December through April, when the trade winds are steady and the weather is dry. Charter yachts in this period should be booked 6–12 months ahead. The summer months (June–November) are quieter and cheaper, but carry a higher risk of tropical storms. The BVI’s Emancipation Festival runs from July 25 to August 8, 2026, with J’ouvert, traditional food, and live music — it’s the most authentic cultural event in the islands.
What to Pack
Pack light — most charter boats have limited storage. Reef-safe sunscreen, a waterproof dry bag, and a good pair of polarized sunglasses are essential. If you’re planning to capture aerial footage of the Baths or the Sir Francis Drake Channel, a compact drone like the DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo is lightweight enough to pack without adding much weight, and the three-battery setup gives you about 114 minutes of total flight time. For underwater shots at the Willie T or the sea caves, a rugged action camera with a long battery life makes it easy to shoot without worrying about charging.
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Diving the RMS Rhone
If you’re a certified diver, the RMS Rhone — which sank in a hurricane in 1867 and lies in 30–80 feet of water off Salt Island — is considered one of the top 10 wreck dives in the world. A two-tank dive runs around $95–130 per person for certified divers, or about $70 for a discover dive. The wreck is protected within the Rhone Marine Park, and the marine life is extraordinary.
Where to Stay
If you’re not sleeping on a boat, each island has accommodation options. On Tortola, the Wyndham Lambert Bay Resort is a beachfront option on the east end. On Jost Van Dyke, White Bay Villas overlooks the beach, and the Sandcastle sits right at the Soggy Dollar Bar. On Virgin Gorda, Mango Bay Resort and Leverick Bay Resort are popular choices. If you’re still weighing which side of the island to sleep on, this interactive map of the BVI’s hotels and rental villas makes it easier to compare beach access, proximity to ferry docks, and nightly rates.
Peak-season mooring balls at the Baths, Monkey Point, and the Bight fill by 11 a.m. If you’re not on a charter boat with a captain who knows the local buoy system, arrive early or have a backup plan — anchoring is prohibited in many of the National Park areas.
- Book charter boats 6–12 months ahead for December–April travel; summer is quieter but cheaper
- Carry cash in small bills — many beach bars and restaurants don’t accept cards
- A valid US passport is required for entry into the BVI, even if arriving from St. Thomas
- Check the cruise ship schedule before visiting the Baths — you want to avoid the crowds
Before You Go: Island Hopping the BVI Questions Answered
Do I need a passport for the BVI coming from St. Thomas?
Yes. The British Virgin Islands require a valid US passport for entry, even if you’re arriving from the US Virgin Islands. Cruise passengers are processed as a group, but independent day-trippers from St. Thomas must carry a passport.
Is the BVI expensive?
It can be, but affordable options exist. The Baths are free to enter, White Bay has no entry fee, and the Anegada Express ferry runs around $40 round trip from Tortola. A full-day catamaran excursion from St. Thomas starts around $130 per person all-inclusive. The main costs are charter boats, mooring fees, and dining out.
What’s the biggest downside of this route?
The reliance on inter-island ferries if you’re not chartering a boat. Ferry schedules are limited on Sundays, and the Anegada ferry runs only three days a week. If you miss a connection, you could lose a full day. Renting a car on Tortola is easy — Paradise Jeep Rental is near the Road Town ferry terminal — but driving on the left side takes some getting used to.
Can I do this trip with kids?
Yes, with some caveats. The Baths are great for active kids, but the rock passages can be slippery. The Soggy Dollar Bar is family-friendly during the day but gets rowdier after 5 p.m. Anegada’s beaches are gentle and shallow, and the snorkeling at Horseshoe Reef is safe for confident swimmers. If you’re chartering, make sure the boat has a dinghy with a small motor — it makes getting ashore much easier with little ones.
What’s the best way to get to the BVI from the US?
Fly into Terrance B. Lettsome Airport (EIS) on Beef Island, Tortola, with connections through Puerto Rico or St. Thomas. Alternatively, fly to St. Thomas (STT) and take the ferry from Charlotte Amalie to Road Town (about $55–65 round trip, 60–90 minutes). The ferry from St. Thomas is cheaper but requires a passport to enter the BVI on the other end.
Why This Route Works
The westbound route from Scrub Island to Jost Van Dyke connects the BVI’s most distinct landscapes — the granite chaos of Virgin Gorda, the flat coral reef of Anegada, the sheltered anchorages of Tortola, and the beach-bar energy of Jost Van Dyke — without any backtracking. Each island has a different character, and the sailing distances between them are short enough that you never feel like you’re spending the whole day on the water. For a deeper dive into the BVI’s rum culture, check out our guide to sipping your way through the islands.
References
Visit the Virgin Islands. “British Virgin Islands Excursions & Things To Do in 2026.” 2026. ↗
Culture Trip. “How to Spend 7 Days Island Hopping Around the British Virgin Islands.” 2025. ↗
Eric Sturgeon. “BVI Tortola Baths Jost Van Dyke Itinerary.” 2025. ↗
If you’re looking for more BVI trip ideas, our guide to honeymooning in the BVI covers the romantic side of the islands, while the natural rock slides in the BVI article covers a different kind of adventure. And if you’re curious about the history beneath the surface, the story of the sunken HMS Lark is worth a read before you dive.
Explore Places to Stay in BVI
Feel free to zoom in and out of the map to explore the area and find the best place to stay for your trip.