The BVI Rum Runners’ Trail is more than just a bar crawl; it’s a journey through the vibrant history and culture of the British Virgin Islands, all fueled by the archipelago’s legendary rum. This isn’t just about drinking; it’s about experiencing firsthand the stories woven into the very fabric of the islands, one delicious sip at a time.
Uncovering the History of Rum Running in the BVI
To truly appreciate the Rum Runners’ Trail, we need to dive into the BVI’s past. The strategic location of the islands, nestled between trade routes and boasting countless hidden coves, made them a haven for smuggling – particularly during the Prohibition era in the United States. While rum production in the BVI wasn’t as prolific as in some other Caribbean islands like Jamaica or Barbados, the BVI played a critical role in transporting rum from those islands to thirsty Americans eager for a taste of the forbidden. Boats would load up under the cover of darkness and navigate treacherous routes to avoid authorities. Imagine the stories! You can almost feel the whispers of those daring seafarers as you stand on the docks of places like Cane Garden Bay or Jost Van Dyke.
The industry shaped the BVI, building wealth and communities that relied on this clandestine activity. Some say that even today, a touch of that rebellious spirit lingers in the air. And that’s part of what makes the Rum Runners’ Trail so appealing. It’s not just about the drinks; it’s about stepping back in time and connecting with this fascinating chapter of the islands’ history.
Charting Your Course: The Rum Runners’ Trail Itinerary
The beauty of the Rum Runners’ Trail is its flexibility. There’s no fixed route or official organization that dictates where you must go. Instead, it’s a framework for exploring the best rum-centric establishments across the BVI. You create your own adventure! But for beginners, here’s a suggested itinerary, hop-scotching between islands and highlighting some iconic spots:
Day 1: Tortola – The Main Hub
Start your rum-fueled adventure on Tortola, the largest of the BVI islands. This is where you’ll likely arrive (Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) is the main airport) and find the most options for accommodation and transportation.
- Callwood Rum Distillery: This historic distillery is a must-visit. It’s one of the oldest continuously operating pot distilleries in the Caribbean. Run by descendants of the Callwood family, you can see (and taste!) rum being made using traditional methods. The experience is truly authentic and provides a fantastic insight into the rum-making process. While the rum isn’t aged for extended periods (think white or lightly aged), the flavor is distinct and memorable. Be prepared for a potent taste! A tour and tasting is usually free but it is always good to call ahead and confirm their hours of operation: +1 284-346-5251.
- Pusser’s Road Town Pub: Pusser’s Rum is steeped in naval history, being closely tied to the British Royal Navy. The legend states it was the “official” rum of the Royal Navy, and the company pays homage to it through its branding and story-telling. The Road Town Pub is the flagship location in the BVI, a great place to learn the brand’s story over a Painkiller cocktail. The Painkiller, made with Pusser’s Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, cream of coconut, and topped with grated nutmeg, is practically the BVI’s national drink. Many argue about the perfect ratio, but Pusser’s claims to have the original recipe. Expect to pay around $12-15 for a Painkiller.
- Omar’s Fusion: This casual spot on Tortola’s west end offers amazing food, fantastic rum punches, and incredible sunset views. It’s slightly off the beaten path which makes it feel like a true discovery. Omar will often come to sit and chat with guests.
Day 2: Jost Van Dyke – Party Island Paradise
Take a ferry from Tortola to Jost Van Dyke. Several ferry companies offer service, including New Horizon Ferry and Speedy’s. The ride is scenic and takes around 20-30 minutes. Jost Van Dyke is best known for its laid-back vibe and legendary beach bars.
- The Soggy Dollar Bar: This is arguably the most famous bar in the BVI, and for good reason! Located on White Bay, its name comes from the fact that customers often swim ashore from their boats, paying for their drinks with soggy dollar bills. The bar is famous for its original Painkiller cocktail. Expect a lively atmosphere, especially during peak season (November to April). Be aware that White Bay can get crowded with day-trippers, particularly when cruise ships are in port.
- Foxy’s Tamarind Bar: A Jost Van Dyke institution! Foxy’s is renowned for its live music, BBQ, and potent rum concoctions. The bar has a rustic, beachy charm and a reputation for good times. It’s a fantastic place to dance the night away under the stars, especially on New Year’s Eve when Foxy’s hosts a legendary party.
- Ivan’s Stress Free Bar: Further down White Bay is Ivan’s Stress Free Bar. A more laid-back alternative to Soggy Dollar and Foxy’s. Ivan’s is known for its tranquility, homemade rum punches, and the opportunity to relax on the beach in a hammock. It’s a great place to unwind and soak up the BVI’s laid-back atmosphere.
Day 3: Virgin Gorda – Beauty and Tranquility
Take a ferry from Jost Van Dyke (or Tortola if you’ve returned) to Virgin Gorda. Speedy’s also serves this route. Virgin Gorda offers a different vibe, characterized by stunning landscapes and quieter beaches. From the Valley, the main town, you can easily take a taxi to various locations.
- The Baths National Park: Start your day exploring The Baths, a geological wonder featuring massive granite boulders scattered along the beach. While not a bar per se, a visit to The Baths is an integral BVI experience that should not be missed and many will appreciate a beverage after exploring the area. The Top of The Baths restaurant and bar overlooks the famous boulders. Enjoy a refreshing drink while taking in the breathtaking views.
- CocoMaya: This upscale beach bar and restaurant on Virgin Gorda is famous for its stunning ambiance, delicious cocktails, and Asian-inspired cuisine right on the beach. CocoMaya creates a romantic and stylish atmosphere, perfect for sunset cocktails and dinner. Prepare for a higher price point compared to the other bars mentioned.
- Bitter End Yacht Club: Rebuilt after Hurricane Irma, the Bitter End Yacht Club is a legendary sailing destination and a hub for watersports. With multiple bars and restaurants, you can enjoy a variety of rum-based drinks while watching the yachts come and go. It offers a perfect combination of luxury and adventure and a great selection of cocktails.
Island Hopping Options
The BVI boasts over 60 islands and cays, each offering unique experiences. Consider these additional stops:
- Anegada: Known for its flat landscape, pristine beaches, and abundant lobster, Anegada is a worthwhile detour. Several restaurants and bars serve rum punches and other tropical cocktails. Cow Wreck Beach Bar is a popular choice known for its laid-back vibe and stunning beach and Loblolly Bay.
- Norman Island: Said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island,” Norman Island is a small, uninhabited island popular with boaters. The Willy T, a floating bar and restaurant, has a reputation for wild parties.
Must-Try BVI Rum Cocktails
While you’re exploring the Rum Runners’ Trail, be sure to try these iconic BVI cocktails:
- Painkiller: As mentioned earlier, this is a BVI staple. The key is the aged rum (ideally Pusser’s), the creamy texture, and the sprinkle of nutmeg. Every bar has its own take, so experiment to find your favorite.
- Rum Punch: The classic Caribbean rum punch is a must-try in the BVI. Recipes vary, but common ingredients include dark rum, fruit juices (pineapple, orange, guava), grenadine, and a dash of bitters.
- Dark ‘n Stormy: Another simple but delicious cocktail, the Dark ‘n Stormy combines dark rum (often Gosling’s Black Seal Rum) with ginger beer and a lime wedge. It’s refreshing and flavorful – perfect for a hot day.
Tips for a Successful Rum Runners’ Trail Adventure
Planning is key to a smooth and enjoyable Rum Runners’ Trail experience. Here’s some practical advice:
Transportation
Island hopping requires careful planning. Ferries are the most common mode of transport, but schedules can be limited, especially during the off-season (May to October). Private boat charters offer more flexibility but are significantly more expensive. Check the schedules and book tickets in advance. Alternatively, you can hire water taxis for point-to-point travel.
On each island, taxis are readily available but can be pricey. Negotiate the fare before you start your journey. Renting a car on Tortola or Virgin Gorda can be a good option for exploring the islands at your own pace, but be prepared for narrow, winding roads. Remember that they drive on the left-hand side.
Accommodation
The BVI offers a range of accommodations, from luxury resorts to charming guesthouses and villas. Road Town, Tortola, and Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, offer the widest options. Book your accommodation well in advance, especially if traveling during peak season. For a more budget-friendly option, consider staying in smaller guesthouses or villas with kitchen facilities.
Budgeting
The BVI is not a budget destination. Expect to pay premium prices for food, drinks, and transportation. To save money, consider these tips:
- Look for happy hour specials. Many bars offer discounted drinks during specific hours.
- Buy your own rum and mixers at a local supermarket.
- Eat at local restaurants and roadside stands for more affordable meals.
- Consider traveling during the off-season when prices are lower.
Responsible Drinking
The Rum Runners’ Trail is all about enjoying the BVI’s rum culture, but it’s essential to drink responsibly. The rum is potent, and the tropical sun can amplify its effects. Here are some tips for staying safe:
- Pace yourself. Don’t try to drink too much too quickly.
- Stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water between cocktails.
- Eat food. It helps to slow down the absorption of alcohol.
- Never drink and drive. Use taxis, ferries, or designated drivers.
- Be aware of your surroundings and avoid walking alone at night.
Respecting the Environment
The BVI is a stunningly beautiful place, and it’s important to protect its natural environment. Be mindful of your impact by:
- Avoiding single-use plastics. Bring your own reusable water bottle and shopping bag.
- Disposing of trash properly.
- Respecting coral reefs and marine life. Don’t touch or disturb them.
- Supporting local businesses that practice sustainable tourism.
Beyond the Booze: Exploring the BVI’s Culture and Natural Beauty
While the Rum Runners’ Trail is centered around rum, take the time to explore the BVI’s other attractions:
Sailing and Watersports
The BVI is a world-renowned sailing destination. Charter a yacht and explore the islands at your own pace. Numerous companies offer bareboat charters (where you captain the boat yourself) or crewed charters (where a captain and crew take care of everything).
Other popular watersports include snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, and kitesurfing. The BVI boasts pristine coral reefs and abundant marine life. The Indians and the Caves near Norman Island are excellent snorkeling and diving sites.
Hiking and Nature Trails
Explore the BVI’s lush interior by hiking its numerous trails. Sage Mountain National Park on Tortola offers stunning views and diverse flora and fauna. Gorda Peak National Park on Virgin Gorda features panoramic vistas.
Beaches
The BVI is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. From the powdery white sands of White Bay on Jost Van Dyke to the secluded coves of Anegada, there’s a beach for every taste.
- Cane Garden Bay (Tortola): Long, sandy beach with calm waters, perfect for swimming and relaxation.
- Trunk Bay (Tortola): Stunning beach with clear waters and excellent snorkeling.
- White Bay (Jost Van Dyke): Lively beach with famous beach bars and a party atmosphere.
- The Baths (Virgin Gorda): Unique geological formation with massive granite boulders.
- Loblolly Bay (Anegada): Pristine beach with crystal-clear waters and abundant marine life.
Souvenirs to Remember Your Trip
Don’t leave the BVI without bringing back a few souvenirs to remind you of your Rum Runners’ Trail adventure:
- Bottles of Local Rum: Capture the taste of BVI. You can find Callwood Rum or Pusser’s Rum at local liquor stores or the distilleries themselves.
- Painkiller Mix: Grab Pusser’s Painkiller mix to recreate the flavors of White Bay back home.
- Handcrafted Jewelry: Local artisans sell unique jewelry made from shells, sea glass, and other natural materials.
- Artwork: Support local artists by purchasing paintings, sculptures, or other artwork depicting the BVI’s scenery and culture.
- Spices and Preserves: Bring home the flavors of the BVI with locally made spices, jams, and preserves.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to visit the BVI for the Rum Runners’ Trail?
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from November to April. The weather is sunny and warm, with low humidity. This is also peak tourist season, so expect higher prices and more crowds. The shoulder months of May and October can also be a good option, with fewer crowds and slightly lower prices, but be aware that there is a higher chance of rain.
How much does the Rum Runners’ Trail cost?
The cost of the Rum Runners’ Trail varies depending on your travel style and choices. Accommodation, transportation, food, and drinks will be your main expenses. You can expect to spend anywhere from $300 to $1000+ per day, depending on your choices.
Do I need a passport to visit the BVI?
Yes, you need a valid passport to enter the BVI. Check your passport’s expiration date to ensure it is valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure date.
What currency is used in the BVI?
The official currency of the BVI is the US dollar (USD). Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller establishments and taxis.
Are there any required vaccinations for visiting the BVI?
There are no required vaccinations for visiting the BVI, but it’s always a good idea to consult with your doctor before traveling to ensure you are up-to-date on all recommended vaccinations. Check the CDC’s website for the latest health information.
Is it safe to drink the tap water in the BVI?
It is generally not recommended to drink tap water in the BVI. Bottled water is readily available and is the safest option.
Can I swim at all the beaches?
While most beaches are suitable for swimming, it’s important to be aware of currents and surf conditions. Pay attention to any posted warning signs and ask locals for advice before entering the water. Some beaches may have strong undertows or rocky areas.
What should I pack for the Rum Runners’ Trail?
Pack light, comfortable clothing, swimwear, sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, and insect repellent. Bring comfortable walking shoes for exploring. A waterproof bag is also useful for protecting your belongings on boat trips. Consider a light rain jacket, especially if travelling during the wet season.
References
British Virgin Islands Tourist Board.
CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention).
Various ferry company websites (Speedy’s, New Horizon).
Ready to embark on your own boozy adventure through the British Virgin Islands? The Rum Runners’ Trail is waiting to be explored, with its captivating history, unforgettable cocktails, and breathtaking scenery. Start planning your trip today and discover the magic of the BVI, one sip at a time! Book your flights, reserve your accommodation, and prepare to immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of the islands. Your Rum Runners’ Trail adventure awaits!