Forget the fancy overwater bungalows and the celebrity sightings; the real magic of Bora Bora happens around the family tables of the island’s fares, small, unassuming eateries that dish up Polynésie authentique, the true taste of French Polynesia. This isn’t about Michelin stars; it’s about flavors passed down through generations, served with a side of genuine warmth and a healthy dose of island time. Prepare to have your taste buds seduced and your wallet pleasantly surprised.
Discovering the Authentic Fare of Bora Bora
So, you’ve booked your dream trip to Bora Bora and are picturing yourself sipping cocktails in a shimmering infinity pool. That’s great! But promise me, promise me, you’ll venture beyond the resort gates. You’ll be missing out on some of the most memorable experiences the island has to offer and some of the most affordable meals you can find. The overwater bungalow dining experience is worth doing, but the beauty of Bora Bora really comes to life when you explore beyond your fancy hotel.
The fares are the lifeblood of the local culinary scene. They’re where families gather, where stories are shared, and where the most delicious food is served with a smile. Finding them is part of the adventure. Don’t expect flashy signs or perfectly manicured gardens. Often, it’s a simple wooden house with a hand-painted sign, tucked away on a side street or overlooking the lagoon. I found my favorite one, Fare Manuia, after getting completely lost trying to cycle to Matira Beach (which, by the way, is stunning – definitely make the trek!).
The Fare Manuia: My Bora Bora Revelation
Speaking of Fare Manuia, let me tell you about it. This humble eatery, run by a lovely couple named Marie and Jean-Pierre, sits right on the lagoon, a little past Bloody Mary’s heading south on the main road. The setting is simple: a covered patio with plastic tables and chairs, the sound of the waves gently lapping against the shore. But the view? Unbeatable. Especially at sunset. Imagine sinking your teeth into freshly grilled tuna, seasoned with local herbs, as the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. Pure bliss.
Marie and Jean-Pierre don’t speak a ton of English, but their warmth transcends any language barrier. They’ll greet you with a genuine smile, and Marie is always happy to explain the day’s specials in her charming French-accented English. The menu is written on a chalkboard, changes daily depending on what’s fresh, and features a variety of Polynesian classics. Keep an eye out for Poisson Cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime), grilled mahi-mahi, and the hearty poe (a traditional Polynesian pudding made from taro, pumpkin or breadfruit). I actually tried my best to learn a few basic phrases in French before I went to Bora Bora – it made a HUGE difference in connecting with the locals and showing respect for their culture. Duolingo is your friend!
Beyond the Plate: The Fare Experience
Eating at a fare isn’t just about the food; it’s about the entire experience. It’s about slowing down, embracing island time, and connecting with the local culture. These family-run establishments offer a glimpse into the real Bora Bora, far removed from the glitz and glamour of the resorts.
For example, one evening at Fare Manuia, a group of local musicians started playing traditional Tahitian music. Suddenly, everyone was singing along, clapping, and even dancing. It was spontaneous, joyful, and utterly unforgettable. I felt like I was part of something special, something authentic. It’s those kinds of moments that you just can’t replicate in a fancy resort restaurant.
The pace of life is slower at a Fare. Don’t expect lightning-fast service. This is a place to relax, to savor your food, and to soak in the surroundings. Bring a book, strike up a conversation with your neighbor, or simply watch the waves roll in. Embrace the island time mentality. I’ve found a good phrase book really helps if your French is rusty.
What to Expect on the Menu (and How to Order)
While menus will vary from fare to fare, you’ll typically find a selection of fresh seafood, grilled meats, and traditional Polynesian dishes. Fish is king here, so be sure to try the local catches. Poisson Cru is a MUST – every fare has its own unique recipe, so don’t be afraid to try it everywhere you go!
Some common dishes include:
- Poisson Cru (Raw Fish): The undisputed king of Polynesian cuisine. Fresh, raw tuna or other fish marinated in lime juice, coconut milk, onions, tomatoes, and cucumbers. It’s refreshing, flavorful, and a must-try.
- Grilled Fish: Mahi-mahi, tuna, parrotfish – whatever is fresh that day will be grilled to perfection and usually served with rice and a simple salad.
- Chicken Fafa: Chicken cooked in spinach and coconut milk, a hearty and flavorful dish.
- Chao Mein: A Polynesian take on stir-fried noodles, often with chicken or seafood. It’s a legacy of Chinese labourers that came to the islands.
- Poe: A traditional Polynesian dessert made from taro, pumpkin, or breadfruit, cooked in a ground oven and then mixed with coconut milk.
Often, the menu will be written in French, so it’s helpful to have a translation app or phrasebook handy. Don’t be afraid to ask questions! The owners are usually happy to explain the dishes and recommend their specialties. A simple “Qu’est-ce que vous recommandez?” (What do you recommend?) will go a long way.
Pro Tip: Some fares don’t have official menus. They’ll simply tell you what they’re cooking that day. Be open to trying new things – you might just discover your new favorite dish!
Finding the Hidden Gems: My Fare Recommendations
Okay, so Fare Manuia is my absolute favorite, but there are plenty of other amazing fares to discover in Bora Bora. Here are a few that come highly recommended:
- Snack Matira: Located right on Matira Beach (near the southern tip), this casual spot is perfect for a beachfront lunch. They serve up delicious burgers, sandwiches, and local dishes at very reasonable prices. And the view? Unbeatable! It’s pretty popular, though, so going early for lunch is recommneded.
- Fare Vaitape: Located in the main town of Vaitape (on the main island), this bustling eatery is a popular spot with locals. It’s known for its generous portions and authentic Polynesian cuisine. Expect a lively atmosphere and a true taste of local life.
- Aloe Cafe: A little further from the main port, it offers a wider range of food. Whilst not strictly Polynesian, it offers tasty, affordable food in a lovely informal location.
Don’t be afraid to wander off the beaten path. Ask the locals for their recommendations. That’s how I discovered Fare Manuia in the first place! A helpful tip when asking for directions to a fare is to ask for the name of the owner, if you know it, as it will help them understand which establishment you’re looking for.
Navigating Bora Bora: How to Get Around
Bora Bora is a small island, but getting around can be a bit tricky. Renting a car is an option, but it can be expensive. Scooters are a popular and affordable alternative. Just be sure to wear a helmet and watch out for the potholes! I remember seeing a sign for “Scoot Fun Bora-Bora,” so that might be a place to start your search.
Another great way to explore the island is by bicycle. It’s a leisurely way to take in the scenery and you can easily stop at the fares along the way. Some hotels provide bicycles for free, or you can rent them in Vaitape. But, be warned, cycling up some of the hills can be a challenge, so be prepared for a workout! And, as I mentioned earlier, getting lost can lead to some fantastic discoveries, like Fare Manuia!
Taxis are available, but they can be quite expensive, especially if you’re traveling long distances. Before agreeing to any journey, always negotiate the price. Alternatively, consider using the local bus system. Although it might not be the most glamorous way to travel, it’s definitely the cheapest and it’s a great opportunity to experience local life.
You can also take a water taxi to reach different parts of the main island or the motus (small islands surrounding the main island). This can be a scenic and convenient way to get around, especially if you’re staying on a motu.
The Cost of Paradise: Budget-Friendly Eating in Bora Bora
Bora Bora has a reputation for being expensive, and while it’s true that the resorts can be pricey, eating at the fares is a fantastic way to save money without sacrificing quality. You can easily enjoy a delicious and filling meal for around $15-$25 USD. In contrast, a meal at a resort restaurant can easily cost you $50 or more. I found the price difference rather astounding. With careful planning you can have the best of both worlds.
Drinks are generally cheaper at the fares as well. A local Hinano beer or a refreshing fruit juice will cost you significantly less than a cocktail at a resort bar. And the atmosphere is far more authentic and relaxed.
Pro Tip: Many fares are cash-only, so be sure to bring enough local currency (French Pacific Francs). You can exchange currency at the airport or at banks in Vaitape.
Planning Your Fare Adventure: Tips for Success
Ready to embark on your culinary adventure in Bora Bora? Here are a few tips to help you make the most of your experience:
- Do your research: Ask locals for recommendations, read online reviews, and explore the island to discover hidden gems.
- Embrace the local culture: Learn a few basic French phrases, be respectful of local customs, and be open to trying new things.
- Be adventurous: Don’t be afraid to stray from the menu and try the daily specials.
- Bring cash: Many fares don’t accept credit cards.
- Relax and enjoy: Embrace island time, savor your food, and soak in the surroundings.
- Check opening times: Opening times depend on many things. Most of these family run businesses open when they are there.
Safety Considerations: Eating with Confidence
Eating at fares in Bora Bora is generally very safe. However, as with any travel destination, it’s always wise to take a few precautions:
- Choose reputable establishments: Look for fares that are clean and well-maintained.
- Check for freshness: Make sure the food is freshly prepared and properly cooked.
- Drink bottled water: Avoid drinking tap water.
- Use mosquito repellent: Mosquitoes can be a nuisance, especially in the evenings.
Before you go, it’s also a good idea to check the latest travel advisories and health recommendations from your government.
The Lagoon’s Bounty: The Importance of Fresh Ingredients
One of the secrets to the incredible flavors of the fares is the use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The island is surrounded by a bountiful lagoon, teeming with fish, and the fertile land yields a variety of fruits and vegetables. This emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients is what makes the food so vibrant and flavorful.
Many fares source their ingredients from local fishermen and farmers. This not only supports the local economy but also ensures that the food is as fresh and authentic as possible. You’ll often see the owners heading to the market early in the morning to pick up the day’s catch or harvest the freshest produce.
Supporting Local Businesses: Responsible Tourism
By choosing to eat at fares, you’re not just treating yourself to a delicious meal; you’re also supporting local businesses and contributing to the sustainable development of the island. These family-run establishments are the heart and soul of the local community, and your patronage helps them to thrive.
Responsible tourism is about making conscious choices that benefit the local community and protect the environment. By choosing to eat at fares, you’re helping to preserve the cultural heritage of Bora Bora and ensure that future generations can enjoy the same authentic experiences.
Fare Etiquette: Showing Respect
While the atmosphere at fares is generally relaxed and informal, it’s always important to be respectful of local customs. Here are a few tips for fare etiquette:
- Dress modestly: While Bora Bora is a tropical destination, it’s respectful to dress modestly when visiting local establishments.
- Be polite: Use polite phrases like “Bonjour” (hello) and “Merci” (thank you).
- Be patient: Service may be slower than you’re used to, but remember that you’re on island time.
- Ask before taking photos: Always ask for permission before taking photos of people.
Creating Lasting Memories: Beyond the Food
Eating at fares in Bora Bora is about more than just the food; it’s about creating lasting memories. It’s about connecting with the local culture, experiencing the true spirit of the island, and forging relationships with the people who call Bora Bora home.
These are the kinds of travel experiences that stay with you long after you’ve returned home. They’re the stories you’ll share with your friends and family, the moments that will make you smile every time you think about Bora Bora. They are what will convince you to revisit the island again and again.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here are some frequently asked questions about dining at fares in Bora Bora:
Are fares safe for tourists to eat at?
Yes, generally fares are perfectly safe to eat at. Just use the same common sense you would when eating anywhere new. Look for establishments that appear clean and well-maintained, and ensure the food is freshly prepared and properly cooked.
Do fares accept credit cards?
This depends on the individual fare. Many smaller, family-run establishments are cash-only, so it’s always best to have some local currency (French Pacific Francs) on hand.
What are some common dishes I can expect to find at fares?
Common dishes include Poisson Cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime), grilled fish (mahi-mahi, tuna), Chicken Fafa (chicken cooked in spinach and coconut milk), Poe (a traditional Polynesian pudding), and Chao Mein (stir-fried noodles).
How much does it typically cost to eat at a fare?
You can expect to pay around $15-$25 USD for a generous and delicious meal at a fare. This is significantly less than the prices at resort restaurants.
How do I find fares in Bora Bora?
Ask locals for recommendations, read online reviews, and explore the island. Look for small, unassuming eateries with hand-painted signs. Don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten path.
What if I don’t speak French?
Many owners speak some English, but it’s helpful to learn a few basic French phrases. A translation app or phrasebook can also be very useful. Don’t be afraid to ask questions – the owners are usually happy to help.
Do I need to make reservations at fares?
Generally, no. Most fares are casual establishments that don’t require reservations. However, it’s always a good idea to check in advance, especially if you’re traveling in a large group.
What is the tipping etiquette at fares?
Tipping is not expected in French Polynesia. Service is usually included in the bill. However, if you feel that the service was exceptional, you can leave a small tip as a gesture of appreciation.
Are there vegetarian or vegan options available at fares?
Vegetarian options can be limited at some fares, but you can usually find salads, rice dishes, and vegetable stir-fries. Vegan options may be more challenging to find, but it’s always worth asking if they can prepare something special for you.
References
- Official Tourism Website of Bora Bora
- Lonely Planet Bora Bora Guide
- TripAdvisor Bora Bora Forums
So, what are you waiting for? Ditch the overpriced resort restaurants and embark on a culinary adventure you’ll never forget. Discover the real Bora Bora, one delicious bite at a time. Go find a fare, meet the local people, and experience the magic of authentic Polynesian cuisine. Book your flight (if you haven’t already), pack your bags, and get ready to tantalize your taste buds. Bora Bora’s best kept secret is waiting to be discovered… by you!
