The first time we landed in Nassau, I remember thinking the air felt different — heavier with salt, lighter with expectation. The Family Islands are the real draw for a week-long trip, but Nassau is where you start, and that’s fine. With over 700 islands and cays to choose from, a first timer needs a roadmap that doesn’t try to cover everything. This one focuses on a single region — the Exumas — with a proper start in Nassau, so you actually get to relax instead of bouncing between planes.
The Bahamas has more than 700 islands and cays, but most first-timers only see one or two. A week in the Family Islands is about depth, not breadth.
Yes, this itinerary is realistic for a first visit — but only if you’re okay with skipping Grand Bahama and the Abacos. The pacing is intentionally slow: two full days in Nassau, then a four-day Exumas stretch, then a final Nassau morning. The biggest risk is trying to add a third island, which would eat up a full day of travel. Stick to two bases and you’ll have time to actually swim, eat, and wander.
First-time visitors
Families with kids
Relaxed island-hoppers
| Day | Where You’re Going | What You’re Doing | Time Needed | Key Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Nassau, New Providence | Arrive, settle in, casual evening | Rest of the afternoon/evening | Book a hotel with a pool or beach access — you’ll want to unwind after the flight. |
| Day 2 | Nassau | Queen’s Staircase, Fort Fincastle, historic downtown | 4–5 hours | Go early — by 10am the cruise ship crowds arrive. |
| Day 3 | Nassau to Exumas | Fly to Great Exuma, afternoon at Stocking Island | Travel: 3h (flight + transfer); afternoon on island | Fly, don’t take the ferry — the water taxi from Georgetown to Stocking Island is quick. |
| Day 4 | Exumas | Swimming pigs at Big Major Cay, Staniel Cay | Full day | Book a tour that includes both stops to save time. |
| Day 5 | Exumas | Snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto, beach time | Half day | Bring a waterproof camera — the grotto is dark but the fish are incredible. |
| Day 6 | Exumas to Nassau | Morning flight back, afternoon at Cable Beach | Travel: 3h; afternoon free | If your flight is late, store luggage at the airport and hit the beach. |
| Day 7 | Nassau | Departure | Morning | Leave at least 2 hours before your flight for security. |
The first two days are about settling in and getting a feel for the country without rushing.
Nassau — The Gateway
We landed around lunchtime, and the hotel shuttle dropped us at a resort on Cable Beach. The first rule of any island trip: don’t schedule anything for arrival day. Michael grabbed drinks, the kids found the pool, and I just sat there letting the humidity settle into my skin. Nassau is the largest city in the Bahamas, with just over a quarter of a million residents, so it’s not exactly a sleepy outpost — but it’s the easiest entry point, with non-stop flights from dozens of U.S. cities including Miami (a 50-minute hop) and Atlanta.
Time on site: rest of the day. Transit from airport to hotel: 15–20 minutes. Choose a place on Cable Beach or near Paradise Island — both are a short taxi ride from Lynden Pindling International Airport.
Time on site: 2 hours. Stroll along the beach or explore the resort’s restaurants — many all-inclusive properties offer unlimited dining. Don’t try to see the city tonight; save it for tomorrow.
Historic Nassau — Queen’s Staircase and Forts
Day two we planned to see the historic side. We started early, before the heat and the cruise ship crowds. The Queen’s Staircase is hard to miss — 66 steps carved out of solid limestone by slaves between 1793 and 1794. It’s a striking sight, narrow and steep, with a small waterfall at the top. Right next to it is Fort Fincastle, a small fort with a good view of the harbor. The whole area took us about an hour, including stopping for photos.
Time on site: 1–1.5 hours. Entry is free for the staircase; Fort Fincastle has a small fee. Go before 9:30am to avoid the rush from cruise passengers. Transit from Cable Beach: 15 minutes by taxi.
Time on site: 1–1.5 hours. Located in downtown Nassau, it’s a 10-minute walk from the forts. The kids enjoyed the interactive exhibits, but it’s a short stop — not a full day activity.
Time on site: 2 hours. Grab conch fritters at a local spot near Bay Street. The straw market is nearby, but expect vendors to be persistent.
Nassau’s historic sites are small. If you’re used to European castles or museums, you might feel underwhelmed. The real appeal is the combination of quick, easy stops that let you see the city’s colonial past without burning a whole day.
Heading into the Exumas reframed the whole trip. That’s where the Family Islands’ character really shows up — clearer water, fewer people, and a slower pace that Nassau can’t quite match.
Exumas — The Real Family Islands
We flew from Nassau to Exuma International Airport (GGT) on a small plane — about 30 minutes in the air, but factor in check-in and baggage. The Exumas are made up of over 365 islands and cays, so you need to pick a base. We stayed near Georgetown on Great Exuma, which is 37 miles long and has enough services to feel comfortable. The first afternoon we took a 10-minute water taxi from Georgetown to Stocking Island, which cost about $15 per person.
Time on site: 30-minute flight + 1.5 hours for airport procedures. Several airlines operate this route. Transit from airport to Georgetown: 15 minutes by taxi. Domestic flights are the most reliable inter-island transport.
Time on site: 3–4 hours. Water taxi from Georgetown runs regularly. The island has beautiful beaches, a few casual bars, and good snorkeling right off the sand. Bring your own mask — rentals are limited.
Swimming Pigs and Staniel Cay
Day four was the highlight for everyone. We took a tour from Staniel Cay that included the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay and snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto. The pigs are wild, but they swim out to boats expecting food — it’s a bit surreal. Staniel Cay itself is only about 5 square miles, with a small settlement and a lovely beach. The offshore coral reefs are worth a mask, even if you don’t go to the grotto.
Time on site: 1 hour with the pigs. Transit from Staniel Cay: 2 hours by boat. Book through a tour operator in advance — they provide life jackets and food for the pigs. The water is shallow, so you can stand near them.
Time on site: 1.5 hours for snorkeling, plus lunch. The grotto was used in the James Bond film Thunderball — it’s a cave that fills with light and fish. Bring a waterproof camera to capture the interior.
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Stocking Island and a Quiet Day
We kept Day 5 intentionally light. After the long boat day, the kids needed a break. We went back to Stocking Island in the morning, but this time we walked the beach to the far end where it’s quieter. The water taxi runs every 30 minutes or so, so you can come and go easily. If you have energy, the snorkeling near the sandbar is decent — we saw a couple of rays. But honestly, we spent most of the afternoon reading on the beach.
Time on site: 2–3 hours. Water taxi from Georgetown: $15 per person, 10-minute ride. Bring snacks and plenty of water — there’s one bar but it’s not always open.
Time on site: 1 hour. A few casual restaurants near the government dock. Try the cracked conch if you haven’t already.
Stocking Island is the stop with the lowest cost-to-cut ratio if you’re short on time. It’s lovely, but it’s not unique — you can find similar beaches in the Exumas without the water taxi fee. If you need to drop something, drop this.
Back to Nassau — Cable Beach and Departure
Day 6 we flew back to Nassau. The flight itself is short, but you need to get to the airport early enough. We landed around 11am and headed straight to Cable Beach. The afternoon was loose — swimming, a late lunch, and a final walk through the hotel’s garden. Ethan wanted to go back to the Queen’s Staircase, but we decided to save it for another visit. Instead we just sat on the beach and watched the sun start to drop.
Time on site: 30-minute flight + 1.5 hours for procedures. Book a morning flight to have the afternoon free. Transit from Nassau airport to Cable Beach: 15 minutes.
Time on site: 3–4 hours. Public access is available at the beach near the Baha Mar resort. Bring a waterproof action camera if you want to capture the kids jumping waves.
Day 7 was just departure. We had a late flight, so we lingered over breakfast, packed slowly, and headed to the airport around 10am. It felt like the right pace — not rushed, not lazy.
Making It Work
The logistics of a Bahamas trip come down to how you move between islands. Here’s what we learned.
Getting Around
Inter-island travel is split between ferries and domestic flights. For the Exumas, flying is the only efficient option from Nassau. The ferry from Nassau to Great Exuma takes about 3 hours, but it’s not as reliable as the flights. Water taxis are fine for short hops like Georgetown to Stocking Island.
| Option | Time | Cost | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flight Nassau → Great Exuma | 30 minutes | $100–$200 per person | Speed and reliability |
| Ferry Nassau → Great Exuma | 3 hours | $60–$80 per person | Budget travelers |
| Water taxi Georgetown → Stocking Island | 10 minutes | $15 per person | Short trips |
When to Go
The best time to visit is November to April, when the weather is dry and the humidity is lower. We went in March and had perfect conditions — sunny, mid-80s, occasional breeze. Hurricane season runs June through November, so if you’re booking then, consider travel insurance.
Cost Reality
This isn’t a budget trip. Flights between islands add up, and tours to the swimming pigs run $100–$150 per person. Hotels in Nassau are cheaper than the Exumas, but you’ll still pay resort prices for beachfront. U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere, which simplifies things.
The most likely pacing failure is trying to visit both the Exumas and Grand Bahama in one week. The travel time between them is 3+ hours each way, and that eats into your beach time. We cut Grand Bahama entirely, and it was the right call.
- Base yourself in Nassau for 2 days, then fly to the Exumas for 4 days — don’t try to add a third island.
- Book tours (swimming pigs, snorkeling) in advance; they fill up quickly during high season.
- Pack light, breathable clothes, insect repellent, and a 360-degree camera if you want to capture the full scene.
Before You Go — The First Timer’s Questions
Do I need a visa for the Bahamas?
If you’re a U.S. or Canadian citizen, no. Citizens of other countries should check — for example, Omani citizens need a visa. The fee ranges from OMR 30–50, plus service charges. You’ll need a valid passport with at least six months of validity, plus hotel confirmation and return flight details.
Is the Exumas worth the extra travel?
Yes, if you have at least three full days. The swimming pigs are a bucket-list thing, but the real draw is the water — it’s clearer than Nassau, and the beaches are emptier. The downside is cost: everything is more expensive, and you’re limited on restaurant choices.
What about the crowds?
Nassau gets packed when cruise ships dock — sometimes 10,000 people disembark in a morning. The Exumas are much quieter. If you want to avoid crowds entirely, skip Nassau and fly directly to Great Exuma. But then you miss the historic forts and the ease of a direct international flight.
Can I use my phone?
Most hotels and resorts have Wi-Fi, but connections can be patchy on the smaller islands. Download offline maps before you go. Cell service is decent in Georgetown but spotty at Staniel Cay.
What’s the one thing I should not skip?
The swimming pigs at Big Major Cay. It’s touristy, sure, but it’s also genuinely strange and fun. The boat ride there is beautiful, and the water is so shallow you can wade alongside the pigs. Bring a small drone if you want aerial shots — the contrast of turquoise water and pink sand is stunning.
Why the Exumas Changed How I See the Bahamas
I thought I knew what island life meant after a few days in Nassau. It wasn’t until we were floating in the warm, shallow water off Big Major Cay, watching a pig paddle past us, that I realized the Family Islands are a different country entirely. The pace is slower, the water is clearer, and the people are more relaxed. It’s not a place you race through — it’s a place you let sink in. And that’s exactly what a week should be.
For more ideas on building a Bahamas trip around the Out Islands, check out how to plan a Bahamas trip around the Out Islands instead of Nassau.
Sources and further reading
Literally Darling. “A Full Itinerary for Visiting the Bahamas.” 2024. 🔗
Sandals Blog. “Island Hopping in the Bahamas.” 🔗
Travel Around the World Blog. “First Timer’s Guide to Exploring the Bahamas.” 🔗
Related reading on IslandHopperGuides
How to combine Eleuthera and Harbour Island in one perfect week — A detailed week-long itinerary for experienced island-hoppers wanting to see two out islands.
How to spend a cruise ship day in Nassau without wasting a minute — A tight schedule for visitors with just one port day in Nassau.
A perfect first week in the Bahamas for total beginners — A broader first-timer itinerary covering Nassau, Exumas, and Grand Bahama.
A complete Abacos loop for sailors and landlubbers alike — A sailing-focused itinerary for the Abaco islands.