Sailing the Exumas: A Week of Luxury & Unforgettable Anchorages

Dreaming of turquoise waters, pristine beaches, and exploring untouched islands? A week sailing the Exumas in the Bahamas offers just that – a luxurious escape to some of the most beautiful anchorages in the world. This isn’t just a vacation; it’s an adventure, a chance to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with nature, all while indulging in comfort and style.

Planning Your Exuma Sailing Adventure

The first step in your Exuma sailing adventure is figuring out the logistics. Will you charter a bareboat (where you’re the captain and crew), hire a skippered yacht, or opt for a cabin charter? Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

Bareboat Charter: This gives you the most freedom and flexibility. You’re in control of the itinerary and the pace. However, you need to be a qualified sailor with the necessary certifications and experience – usually an International Certificate of Competence (ICC) or equivalent. Companies like The Moorings and Sunsail offer bareboat charters from bases in the Bahamas, including Nassau and Great Exuma (depending on the options selected.) Expect to pay anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000+ per week, depending on the size and type of yacht, and the time of year. Be sure to factor in provisioning costs, fuel, dockage fees (if you choose to use marinas), and any activities you book.

Skippered Yacht Charter: This is a great option if you want the sailing experience without the responsibility. A professional skipper will handle the navigation and boat management, so you can relax and enjoy the scenery. You’ll still have input on the itinerary, but the skipper will ensure your safety and can offer valuable local knowledge. Expect to pay a premium for the skipper’s services, around $200-$400 per day, plus their food and accommodation (usually a separate cabin). This option makes sense if you are less confident with your sailing skills or just want a more relaxed holiday.

Cabin Charter: This is the most budget-friendly option, where you rent a cabin on a larger yacht and share the boat with other travelers. The itinerary is usually fixed, but it’s a social way to experience the Exumas. Prices vary widely, but you can expect to pay from $1,500 to $4,000 per person per week.

Choosing the Right Time to Sail

The best time to sail the Exumas is generally from November to May. The weather is typically dry and sunny, with consistent trade winds. The hurricane season runs from June to November, so it’s generally best to avoid sailing during this period. We aimed for early April and couldn’t have asked for better weather: clear blue skies, steady breezes, and relatively calm seas, perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and relaxed sailing. Temperatures in the Exumas average around 80°F (27°C) year-round.

Essential Provisioning for Your Sailing Trip

Proper provisioning is essential for a smooth sailing trip. Here are some tips.

Plan Your Meals: Before you arrive, plan your meals for the week. Consider how many meals you’ll eat onboard versus ashore. This will help you create a comprehensive shopping list. We made sure to account for snacks and drinks, too. If you have dietary restrictions or preferences, be sure to factor those in. Online charter companies often provide provisioning lists to help you get started.

Consider Local Markets: Stock up on fresh produce, seafood, and local specialties at markets in Nassau or Great Exuma (George Town has a good market). This supports the local economy and lets you experience the authentic flavors of the Bahamas. Remember that availability can vary, so be flexible. The freshest fish, lobster (in season), and tropical fruits are always a great choice.

Pack Non-Perishables: Bring a good supply of non-perishable items like canned goods, pasta, rice, beans, and snacks. These are essential for days when you’re anchored away from shops and restaurants. Make sure to pack enough coffee or tea for the entire trip!

Water and Drinks: Ensure you have enough water for drinking, cooking, and washing. You can either purchase bottled water or use a watermaker if your yacht is equipped with one. Also, pack plenty of soft drinks, juices, and alcoholic beverages (if desired). Don’t forget ice! A small portable ice maker can be a lifesaver.

Booze and Customs: Know the regulations regarding bringing alcohol into the Bahamas. You’re typically allowed to bring in a certain amount per person duty-free. Check the latest customs regulations before you travel to avoid any issues.

A Suggested Exuma Sailing Itinerary

This is just a suggested itinerary; feel free to customize it to your preferences. Distances are relatively short, allowing for flexibility and relaxation.

Day 1: Nassau to Highbourne Cay (approx. 35 nautical miles): Start your adventure in Nassau. After clearing customs and provisioning your yacht, set sail for Highbourne Cay, the northernmost island in the Exumas. This is a longer sail to begin with, so get settled and enjoy the relaxing journey. Discover the stunning Allen’s Cay, inhabited by the endangered Exuma Island Iguana (Cyclura cychlura inornata). The Bahamas National Trust manages conservation efforts for these unique creatures.

Day 2: Highbourne Cay Explorer: Highbourne offers excellent snorkeling and diving. The colorful coral reefs are teeming with marine life. Anchor in the protected harbor and explore the island’s pristine beaches. Check out the Highbourne Cay Marina for a nice dinner ashore, or stay aboard for a sunset. You can take a tender ride to colorful reefs.

Day 3: Warderick Wells Cay (approx. 20 nautical miles): Sail south to Warderick Wells Cay, the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This is a must-visit destination for nature lovers. The park is renowned for its pristine reefs, diverse marine life and stunning beaches. Secure a mooring (reservations are highly recommended – call on VHF channel 16) and explore the park’s many trails. Visit the skeleton of a sperm whale on the beach – a truly memorable landmark.

Day 4: Shroud Cay (approx. 15 nautical miles): Continue south to Shroud Cay, an uninhabited island with mangrove creeks and beautiful beaches. Explore the creeks by dinghy and paddleboard (if you have one). Shroud Cay is great for birdwatching and enjoying the tranquility of nature. The island’s unique ecosystem is home to a variety of plant and animal species.

Day 5: Compass Cay (approx. 20 nautical miles): Next up is Compass Cay, famous for its swimming pigs and nurse sharks. Interact with these amazing creatures in a safe and respectful manner and spend some time on the beach, which are very beautiful. The marina offers showers and restrooms, so it’s a good place to refresh and provision.

Day 6: Staniel Cay (approx. 10 nautical miles): A short sail south will bring you to Staniel Cay, home of the famous Thunderball Grotto, featured in multiple James Bond films. Snorkel through the grotto at low tide and marvel at the vibrant marine life. Staniel Cay Yacht Club is a popular spot for boaters, offering a lively atmosphere and delicious food. A lot of yachts choose to stay here and restock provisions.

Day 7: Return to Nassau (approx. 80 nautical miles): Enjoy a final breakfast in the Exumas before setting sail back to Nassau. This is a longer passage (particularly depending on wind directions), so make sure to plan accordingly. Reflect on your incredible sailing adventure as you cruise back to the starting point. Alternatively, if you started in Great Exuma, consider exploring the southern Exumas such as Little Exuma and the Tropic of Cancer Beach.

Unforgettable Anchorages and Experiences

Here are some of the highlights you can expect from your Exuma sailing trip.

Allen’s Cay Iguanas: These endangered reptiles are found only in the Exumas and are a unique sight. You can see them up close on Allen’s Cay but be respectful of their habitat and avoid feeding them human food. (Best to bring some grapes or similar if you really want to feed them).

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park: This protected area is a paradise for snorkelers and divers. The coral reefs are teeming with colorful fish, sea turtles, and other marine life. Be sure to obtain a permit before entering the park. The reserve helps to actively manage the habitat for optimal coral and wildlife population.

Thunderball Grotto: Snorkel into this underwater cave and discover a world of vibrant marine life. The grotto is illuminated by sunlight streaming through openings in the ceiling, creating a magical atmosphere. High tide can make swimming a bit more intense with stronger currents.

Swimming Pigs of Exuma: This is arguably the Exumas’ most popular attraction. Interact with the friendly pigs on Big Major Cay. They’ll swim out to your boat in hopes of a snack but be respectful of their diet and environment. There are varying views on the ethics of interacting with the pigs, so make sure you are making informed choices.

Nurse Sharks at Compass Cay: Another unforgettable encounter with marine wildlife. Swim alongside these gentle sharks in the marina at Compass Cay. They are generally harmless, but always exercise caution and listen to the instructions of the marina staff.

Practical Tips for Sailing the Exumas

Here are some essential tips to ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing trip in the Exumas.

Navigation: Chart plotters and GPS are essential for navigating the waters of the Exumas, which can be tricky due to shallow reefs and strong currents. Be sure to have up-to-date charts and familiarize yourself with the local conditions. Consider investing in a paper chart as a backup in case of electronic failure. Pay close attention to tide tables and currents, as they can significantly impact your sailing plans.

Anchoring: Choose your anchorages carefully, considering the weather conditions and the holding ground. Sandy bottoms generally provide the best holding. Avoid anchoring near coral reefs or in areas with strong currents. Use plenty of chain and set your anchor properly. Also, consider using an anchor alarm for peace of mind.

Water Conservation: Water can be scarce in the Exumas, so conserve it whenever possible. Take short showers, avoid washing dishes with running water, and use a watermaker if your yacht is equipped with one. Remember to ration drinking water and avoid wasting it.

Waste Management: Dispose of your waste responsibly. Avoid throwing trash overboard and use designated waste disposal facilities when available. Support eco-friendly practices and help to protect the environment of the Exumas.

Communication: Cell phone coverage can be spotty in the Exumas, so consider investing in a satellite phone or a satellite communication device for emergencies. VHF radio is essential for communicating with other boats and shore-based services. Monitor weather forecasts and stay informed about any potential hazards.

Sun Protection: The sun in the Bahamas is intense, so protect yourself with sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses. Wear lightweight, long-sleeved clothing to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water throughout the day.

Bug Protection: Mosquitoes and no-see-ums can be prevalent in certain areas, especially at dawn and dusk. Use insect repellent and wear long clothing to protect yourself from bites. Consider bringing a mosquito net for sleeping.

Fuel and Water Availability: Check the availability of fuel and water at marinas along your route. Plan your stops accordingly and ensure you have enough supplies to reach your next destination. Be aware that some marinas may have limited hours or services during certain times of the year.

Weather Awareness: Stay informed about the weather forecast and be prepared for changes in conditions. Strong winds and squalls can occur unexpectedly. Have a plan for seeking shelter in case of bad weather. Monitor VHF weather channels and use weather apps to stay updated.

Cost Breakdown

Giving a definitive cost is tough as it depends on so many things, but here’s a rough estimate.

• Yacht Charter: $5,000 – $20,000+ per week (depending on size, type, and season)
• Skipper Fee: $200 – $400 per day (if applicable)
• Provisioning: $500 – $1,500 per week (depending on your preferences)
• Dockage Fees: $2 – $5 per foot per night (if using marinas)
• Fuel: $200 – $500 per week (depending on usage)
• Exuma Park Fees: $10 per person per day (if visiting the park)
• Activities: Swimming pigs: $5-20 (dockage fee to see pigs); Thunderball Grotto – varies (some tour operators charge a minimal fee)

Navigating to Relevant Places

Here are basic navigation instructions to reach some of the popular spots:
Highbourne Cay: From Nassau, head southeast towards the Exuma chain. Highbourne Cay is the northernmost cay, about a 35-nautical mile sail. Look for the well-marked entrance to the harbor. 24°42’55.6″N 76°49’39.8″W

Warderick Wells Cay: Sail south from Highborne Cay. Warderick Wells is easily identifiable with its prominent mooring field. Call the park headquarters on VHF channel 16 for mooring assignment. 24°20’58.9″N 76°37’54.0″W

Compass Cay: Continue south to Compass Cay. Enter the harbor and follow the marked channel. The nurse sharks are usually found near the docks. Compass Key Marina 24°18’26.6″N 76°31’33.3″W

Staniel Cay: A short hop from Compass Cay to Staniel Cay. Thunderball Grotto is just west of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Staniel Cay 24°10’30.0″N 76°27’15.0″W

Recommendations

Boats: Moorings and Sunsail are a safe bet for boat-quality bareboat or skippered charters. Make sure to select a boat with a tender to get around the anchorage.

Provisions: You can pre-order provisions at the marina if you are bareboating. Otherwise, there will be a few places you can buy foods and drinks along the way, but you may have to pay extra for the convenience.

Foods & Drinks: Try the local seafood – the crab and lobster dishes are amazing. Kalik is the local beer, a must-try.

Activities: Spend at least a day at the Exuma Land and Sea park. You will need one or two days to properly experience the park and all that it has to offer.

Accommodations: Nassau is the place to get a hotel but George Town in Great Exuma also has nice accommodations.

FAQ Section

What documents do I need to charter a yacht in the Bahamas? You will need a valid passport, sailing certifications (if bareboating), and a cruising permit. Check with your charter company for specific requirements.

What is the best way to avoid seasickness? Stay hydrated, avoid greasy foods, and take seasickness medication if needed. Spend time on deck and focus on the horizon. Acupressure wristbands can also be helpful. Talk to your doctor about prescription options.

Are there any dangers to be aware of in the Exumas? Be aware of shallow reefs, strong currents, and sudden weather changes. Follow safe navigation practices, monitor weather forecasts, and be cautious when anchoring. Respect marine life and avoid disturbing their habitat. Jellyfish stings although unpleasant are common so be sure to check the local conditions before getting in the water.

What type of clothing should I pack? Pack lightweight, quick-drying clothing suitable for warm weather. Bring swimwear, hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Also, pack a light jacket or sweater for cooler evenings. Don’t forget a pair of comfortable shoes for walking on shore.

What currency is used in the Bahamas? The Bahamian dollar (BSD) is the official currency, but US dollars are widely accepted. Credit cards are accepted at most establishments, but it’s always a good idea to have some cash on hand for smaller purchases.

References

The Moorings. (n.d.).

Sunsail. (n.d.).

Bahamas National Trust. (n.d.).

Ready to transform your vacation dreams into reality? Imagine yourself gliding through the cerulean waters of the Exumas, sun-kissed and carefree, exploring hidden coves and encountering unique wildlife. Don’t just dream it – do it! Start planning your unforgettable Exuma sailing adventure today. Contact a reputable charter company, book your travel, and prepare for the experience of a lifetime. The Exumas are waiting!