The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, established in 1958, was the first marine reserve in the Bahamas and the wider Caribbean. Spanning 176 square miles — roughly 112,640 acres of protected land and sea — it’s the most visited national park in the Bahamas and holds a Platinum Global Ocean Refuge Award. That recognition comes from decades of strict no-take enforcement, which means the reefs are healthier and the fish larger than almost anywhere else in the archipelago. For cruisers arriving on their own boat, the park offers a rare chance to experience the Exumas as they were decades ago: quiet, wild, and completely self-sufficient.
176 square miles of protected land and sea — accessible only by private boat or charter, with no grocery stores, no trash service, and a strict no-take policy that keeps the marine life thriving.
This guide covers the four main anchorages inside the park — Shroud Cay, Hawksbill Cay, Warderick Wells, and Cambridge Cay — with the logistical details you need to navigate mooring fields, park rules, and what to bring. Whether you’re an experienced cruiser or a first-time charterer, the key to enjoying this place is preparation. The park has no provisions, no fuel docks, and limited communication, so what you bring in is what you’ve got.
Can you explore the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park on your own boat? Yes, but it requires more planning than a chartered excursion. You’ll need to be comfortable anchoring, picking up mooring balls, and handling your own provisions. The payoff is total freedom to explore at your own pace — and the snorkeling is unmatched because of the no-take rules.
Self-sufficient cruisers
Families with older kids
Snorkelers and divers
Experienced boaters
Each of the park’s main anchorages offers something different — protected harbors, hiking trails, ruins, or drift-along mangrove creeks. Here’s how they compare.
| Spot | Best For | Standout Feature | Time Needed | Key Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shroud Cay | Mangrove exploration | “Washing Machine” natural pool | Half day | Anchor on the western shore and dinghy into the creeks at mid-tide |
| Hawksbill Cay | History and hiking | Loyalist-era ruins | Full day | Wear closed-toe shoes and long pants for the trail |
| Warderick Wells | Hub of the park | Boo-Boo Hill summit & park office | 2–3 days | Radio on VHF Channel 09 for mooring assignment — no reservations available |
| Cambridge Cay | Secluded snorkeling | Small, protected mooring field | Overnight | Arrive early — only 6 mooring balls and they fill fast |
Shroud Cay: Mangrove Creeks and the Washing Machine
Shroud Cay sits at the northern end of the park and is a favorite stop for cruisers looking for calm, protected waters. The western shore holds a mooring field of roughly 14 balls, but the real attraction is tucked inside the island. A network of mangrove creeks cuts through the cay, leading to a natural ocean-fed pool known locally as the “Washing Machine.” The current swirls through the narrow cut, creating a gentle drift that pulls you through clear, shallow water. It’s the kind of spot where you can float for an hour and see nothing but mangrove roots, starfish, and the occasional turtle.
Hawksbill Cay: Ruins and Ridge Trails
Hawksbill Cay lies south of Shroud and offers a different kind of exploration: history. The ruins of a Loyalist-period stone house sit on the eastern side of the island, accessible by a short but rugged trail. Three mooring fields surround the cay — north, south, and a smaller field between Hawksbill and Little Hawksbill — adding up to roughly 24 balls. The north field offers protection from northeast to southeast winds, while the south field handles the same range. A lightweight drone like the DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo is a popular addition for cruisers who want to capture the scale of the ruins against the turquoise water, and its 10km range and wind resistance make it practical for island shots.
Anchor at least 100 yards from the mooring fields if you want more privacy. The holding is good in sand, but check the weather forecast before dropping the hook — the anchorage is less protected than the mooring fields during southerly winds.
Warderick Wells: The Park’s Heartbeat
Warderick Wells is the administrative center of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, and it’s where you’ll find the park office, ranger station, and the largest collection of moorings — 54 balls spread across three fields. The north field (22 balls) offers protection but strong reversing currents during tidal changes. The Emerald Rock field (26 balls) is more sheltered and has no current effect, making it the preferred choice for most cruisers. Hogs Cay (3 balls) sits between the two and is well-protected in most conditions. The park office is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 12pm and 1pm to 4pm, and Sunday from 9am to 12pm. You can reach them on VHF Channel 09.
Radio the park office on VHF Channel 09 with your vessel length and requested field. They’ll assign a ball based on availability and conditions. Use your boat hook to grab the pennant — the balls are in good condition but the pickup line can be short in rough weather.
The trail starts near the park office. Allow 45–60 minutes round trip. The summit has a cairn where boaters leave a piece of wood or a placard with their boat name — it’s a tradition that’s been going on for decades. A Garmin Fenix 8 Solar is handy here for tracking the hike and keeping an eye on battery life if you’re spending multiple days off the grid.
The reef at Emerald Rock is one of the healthiest inside the park. Access it directly from the mooring field — no dinghy required. The no-take status means the fish are abundant and unafraid. Expect to see nurse sharks, rays, and schools of grunts and snappers.
Walk over to the park office during opening hours to pay your mooring fee and ask about trail conditions. The rangers are a wealth of local knowledge and can tell you which cays have active eagle nests or turtle nesting beaches.
Cambridge Cay: Small, Protected, and Worth the Wait
Cambridge Cay sits near the southern boundary of the park and has the smallest mooring field — just 6 balls — but they’re well-protected from all directions. The western shore moorings are the calmest option in the park during unsettled weather. The downside is the limited capacity: if you arrive after 2pm in peak season (December–April), expect the field to be full. There’s good snorkeling on the reef just off the moorings, and the cay itself has a short trail to a beach on the eastern side.
Planning Your ECLSP Boat Trip: Moorings, Rules, and Provisions
The freedom of exploring the park on your own boat comes with a specific set of logistical constraints. Here’s what you need to know before you cross the park boundary.
Mooring Fees and the First-Come, First-Served System
Mooring fees are based on vessel length and include VAT. As of early 2024, you can pay online at the Bahamas National Trust payment portal or in person at the Warderick Wells park office during operating hours. Most mooring balls are first come, first served — Warderick Wells is the exception, where you radio the park office for an assignment. If all balls are full, ask about a waiting list; cruisers often move on after a night or two. Anchoring is permitted almost anywhere within the park boundaries except within 100 yards of mooring fields, on coral reefs, or in designated exclusion zones. The same daily fee applies whether you anchor or pick up a ball.
What to Bring and How to Prepare
There are no grocery stores, fuel docks, or trash facilities inside the park. Provisions need to be bought beforehand in George Town, Staniel Cay, or Nassau. The park office sells limited snacks and drinks, but you shouldn’t rely on that for a multi-day stay. A Samsonite Classic Leather Slim Backpack is a solid choice for carrying water, sunscreen, and snacks ashore on day hikes — it’s compact enough to stow in a dinghy locker but holds a 14-inch laptop if you’re mixing work with cruising. For longer passages between anchorages, a good pair of over-ear headphones like the Bose QuietComfort makes the downtime between destinations more comfortable, especially on overnight hops.
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Navigating the Park’s Communication System
The park office monitors VHF Channel 09 for routine calls and Channel 16 for emergencies. A handheld VHF radio is essential — cell service is patchy at best inside the park boundaries. If you’re spending time on the trails or away from your boat, carry the handheld so you can contact the rangers or other cruisers in case of an issue. The Bahamas Defence Force also stations officers at the park headquarters; they monitor Channel 16 around the clock. If you’re still weighing which part of the park to base yourself, this interactive map of Exuma hotels and rentals makes it easier to compare options near the park’s southern entrance if you need a night on land before or after your cruise.
The no-take zone is strictly enforced. Rangers and Defence Force officers conduct regular patrols. Fines for taking conch, lobster, or shells can be steep, and repeat offenders risk having their vessel detained. If you see poaching, report it to the park warden on VHF Channel 09 — you can remain anonymous by identifying yourself as “Miss Molly.”
Before You Go: Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park Questions Answered
Can I fish inside the park boundaries?
No. The entire park is a no-take zone. Fishing, spearfishing, conch harvesting, and shell collecting are prohibited. The rule is strictly enforced, and the fines are significant. If you want to fish, you need to do it outside the park boundaries — the closest spots are north of Wax Cay Cut or south of Conch Cut.
Do I need a permit to anchor my boat in the park?
Yes, but it’s a straightforward process. You pay the daily fee online or at the park office. There’s no advance reservation for anchoring — it’s first come, first served, just like the mooring fields. Keep your receipt on board in case a ranger asks to see it.
What’s the best time of year to visit the park by boat?
December through April offers the most stable weather, with consistent easterly trade winds and minimal storm risk. The trade-off is that this is also peak season, and mooring fields often fill by early afternoon. May through November is quieter and cheaper, but you’ll need to watch for tropical weather systems. If you’re bringing a Insta360 X5 for 360-degree video of your trip, the calmer summer seas give you steadier footage for the post-production reframing the camera is known for.
Can I bring my dog ashore on the cays?
Dogs are allowed on the beaches of the park but not on the nature trails. The rule exists to protect ground-nesting birds and other wildlife. Keep your dog on a leash and clean up after it. The beaches at Warderick Wells and Shroud Cay are the most dog-friendly options.
Is the park suitable for families with young children?
Yes, with the right preparation. The shallow water at Shroud Cay and the calm mooring field at Emerald Rock are ideal for kids learning to snorkel. The main challenges are the lack of provisions (you need to bring all food and water) and the VHF-only communication, which can feel isolating if you’re used to having cell service. For a detailed look at child-friendly stops across the Bahamas, our guide to kid-friendly activities in the Bahamas covers everything from shallow reef snorkeling to nature walks that work for a range of ages.
Respecting the Park’s Legacy
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park isn’t just a beautiful stretch of water — it’s a living experiment in marine conservation. Since 1958, its no-take policy has allowed fish populations to recover to levels rarely seen in the Caribbean, and that abundance spills over into the surrounding waters, supporting local fisheries outside the boundaries. Cruising through it on your own boat gives you a direct connection to that legacy. You see the health of the reef in every coral head, and the size of the fish in every snorkel. That’s the trade-off for the planning and self-sufficiency it requires — and it’s one worth making.
For more Bahamas cruising inspiration, our Exuma Cays guide covers other must-visit stops outside the park boundaries, including pig beaches and sandbars that work well as day trips from a base inside the park.
References
Bahamas National Trust. “Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.” Bahamas National Trust, 2024. ↗
Money for Mangos. “Exploring Exuma Land and Sea Park Moorings.” Money for Mangos, 2024. ↗
Southern Boating. “Exumas Cays Land and Sea Park.” Southern Boating, 2024. ↗
If you’re planning a longer itinerary through the Bahamas, you might find our guides to thrill-seeker activities in the Bahamas useful for adrenaline-heavy days outside the park, or our freediving blue holes article for exploring deeper underwater attractions nearby. For a completely different cruising experience, Great Stirrup Cay’s new pools and adventure zones offer a resort-style alternative to the park’s wilderness anchorages.
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