The red-and-white striped tower of the Elbow Reef Lighthouse on Elbow Cay, Abaco, is the last hand-operated, kerosene-burning lighthouse in the world. Constructed in 1863, its keeper still climbs 101 steps each evening to light the flame and hand-crank a weight system—much like a grandfather clock—to keep the Fresnel lens turning. The beam projects up to 23 nautical miles, warning vessels away from the shallow coral reef off Hope Town. This article covers the history, restoration, and practical logistics of visiting the Bahamas’ surviving Imperial Lighthouse Service stations, including those nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status.
Elbow Reef Lighthouse is the last of its kind left in the world — a hand-operated, kerosene-burning lighthouse still in active service.
Between 1836 and 1997, the British Imperial Lighthouse Service commissioned 11 manned light stations across the Bahamas. Today, only Elbow Reef remains manually operated. A restoration project funded by a $472,000 grant from the U.S. Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation is underway to repair the original slate floors, the Fresnel lens, and the candy-striped exterior. The work, managed by the Elbow Reef Lighthouse Society, follows damage from Hurricane Dorian in 2019 and decades of salt-air wear.
If you visit only one lighthouse in the Bahamas, make it Elbow Reef. The kerosene operation is genuinely rare — but access requires a ferry to Hope Town, and the tower is not always open for climbing during restoration phases. Check the ERLS schedule before planning a trip.
Navigating the Lighthouse Islands: Abaco and Beyond
The eleven lighthouses nominated for UNESCO status stretch from Great Isaac in the north to Inagua in the south. Most sit on remote cays accessible only by private boat or charter. Elbow Reef, on Elbow Cay, is the most visited because Hope Town is a established settlement with ferry service from Marsh Harbour. Hole-in-the-Wall, at the southern tip of Great Abaco, was the first built in 1836 and remained kerosene-fuelled until 1995. Its limestone arch namesake has since collapsed, but the tower still stands.
Lighthouses constructed by the British Imperial Lighthouse Service between 1836 and 1887, nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status.
Getting between these sites requires planning. Marsh Harbour airport serves Elbow Cay and Hope Town via a 15-minute water taxi. Hole-in-the-Wall has no scheduled transport — you need a 4×4 and a long dirt track from Cherokee Sound. The San Salvador lighthouse, automated in the 1990s, sits near the island’s only resort and is easier to reach by rental car. None of these stations have visitor centres or regular guided tours.
Three Lighthouses Worth the Journey
Elbow Reef Lighthouse, Hope Town
The 89-foot masonry tower with its grey metallic dome sits west of Hope Town harbour. Five white flashes every 15 seconds mark the reef at 120 feet above sea level, visible for 15 nautical miles. The first-order Fresnel lens is the centrepiece — a massive glass assembly that bends kerosene light into a focused beam. Climbing the 101 steps rewards you with a view across the Sea of Abaco, but the lantern room is cramped and the staircase narrow. Restoration work may close the tower on short notice; the Elbow Reef Lighthouse Society posts updates on its Facebook page.
San Salvador Lighthouse
Automated after Elbow Reef was saved from the same fate, San Salvador’s lighthouse still stands on the island’s northern tip. The station was one of the last two manually operated before automation took over between 1973 and 2012. Today it runs on solar power. The island itself is a day trip from Nassau via Bahamasair, and the lighthouse is a short drive from the Riding Rock Inn. The surrounding coastline is exposed — strong winds and sharp limestone rock make swimming impractical at the base.
Elbow Reef Lighthouse emits five white flashes every 15 seconds. Count the intervals — if you see a different pattern, you are looking at a different station. Each of the 11 nominated lighthouses has a unique flash sequence.
Planning Your Lighthouse Visit: Timing, Access, and Costs
Ferries from Marsh Harbour to Hope Town run roughly every 30 minutes during daylight, costing around $20 round trip. No cars are allowed on Elbow Cay — you walk or rent a golf cart. The lighthouse sits a 10-minute walk from the ferry dock. Hole-in-the-Wall requires a full day from Marsh Harbour: drive to Cherokee Sound (45 minutes), then the dirt track (another 30–40 minutes depending on conditions). A 4×4 is essential after rain.
| Lighthouse | Access | Best Time |
|---|---|---|
| Elbow Reef | Ferry + walk (easy) | Nov–Apr, before 10am for fewer cruise-ship day-trippers |
| Hole-in-the-Wall | 4×4 required (difficult) | Dec–Mar, dry roads only |
| San Salvador | Rental car (moderate) | Year-round, but flights limited to Wed/Sat |
The dry season from November to April offers the calmest seas and lowest humidity. Hurricane season (June–November) can disrupt ferry schedules and close the Abaco airports. Restoration work at Elbow Reef is expected to continue through 2025, so the tower interior may be off-limits during certain phases. The exterior and grounds remain accessible.
No lighthouse in the Bahamas has a gift shop, café, or restroom. Bring water, sun protection, and cash for the ferry. Cell service is patchy on Elbow Cay and nonexistent at Hole-in-the-Wall.
On the Ground: What to Know Before You Go
Packing for a Lighthouse Day
The walk to Elbow Reef is short and flat, but the tower steps are steep and the lantern room has no ventilation. Lightweight clothing, closed-toe shoes, and a small flashlight for the staircase interior are practical. A drone can capture the tower from above, but Elbow Cay has a local ordinance restricting drone use near the settlement — launch from the beach south of the lighthouse to avoid fines. The DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo is compact enough for a day pack and its vertical shooting mode frames the tower well against the sky.
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Local Etiquette and Customs
Hope Town is a quiet settlement. Golf carts stop for pedestrians, and loud music after 9 p.m. draws complaints. The lighthouse is not a tourist attraction in the conventional sense — it is a working navigation aid. Do not touch the Fresnel lens or enter the keeper’s quarters without permission. The Elbow Reef Lighthouse Society runs occasional open days; otherwise, observe from the lawn.
- Elbow Reef is the only hand-operated, kerosene-burning lighthouse left in the world — see it before automation or further storm damage changes that.
- Hole-in-the-Wall requires a 4×4 and a full day; San Salvador is easier but flights are limited. Plan around ferry and flight schedules, not the other way around.
- Restoration work may close the Elbow Reef tower interior through 2025. Check the ERLS Facebook page before booking accommodation on Elbow Cay.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bahamian Lighthouses
Can you climb Elbow Reef Lighthouse?
Yes, when the tower is open. The 101-step climb is narrow and steep, and the lantern room fits only a few people at a time. During the current restoration phase, access is limited — check with the Elbow Reef Lighthouse Society before you go.
How many lighthouses are in the Bahamas?
Eleven were built by the British Imperial Lighthouse Service between 1836 and 1887, and all are nominated for UNESCO status. Only Elbow Reef remains manually operated. The others have been automated or decommissioned.
Is Hole-in-the-Wall Lighthouse worth the drive?
Only if you have a 4×4 and enjoy remote, empty landscapes. The tower itself is impressive — one of the best examples of old-style British lighthouse architecture in the New World — but there is nothing else at the site. No shade, no facilities, and the road can be impassable after rain.
What is the best time of year to visit the lighthouses?
November through April. Seas are calm enough for reliable ferry service to Elbow Cay, and the dirt road to Hole-in-the-Wall stays dry. Hurricane season can shut down Abaco airports and damage access roads.
Do any lighthouses offer overnight stays?
No. The keeper’s quarters at Elbow Reef are historic buildings, not accommodations. San Salvador has a small resort nearby, but the lighthouse itself is unstaffed. There are no lighthouse-stay programs in the Bahamas.
Sources and further reading
Restoring a beacon of hope. The Nassau Guardian, 2022.
Elbow Reef Restoration. Bahamas B2B, 2022.
Eleven Lighthouses of the Bahamas. UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, 2023.
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