From Zeerover to Flying Fishbone: A Seafood Lover’s Aruba Itinerary

Aruba, the “One Happy Island,” isn’t just about stunning beaches and turquoise waters; it’s a culinary paradise, especially for seafood enthusiasts. From the rustic charm of Zeerover, where you can watch your fish being caught and cooked, to the elegant ambiance of Flying Fishbone, where you dine with your feet in the sand, Aruba offers a diverse range of seafood experiences that will tantalize your taste buds. This itinerary is a deep dive into how to craft the ultimate seafood adventure on the island, maximizing both flavor and value.

Navigating the Seafood Scene: A Lay of the Land

Before we dive into specific restaurants, let’s discuss the general landscape of seafood dining in Aruba. You’ll find everything from casual, local spots (“local”) to high-end restaurants catering to tourists. Prices vary dramatically, so understanding the difference is crucial. Generally, spots further from the high-rise hotel areas on Palm Beach offer more affordable options and a taste of authentic Aruban cuisine. Consider renting a car to fully explore the island and access these hidden gems. Taxis are readily available, but the costs can add up quickly if you plan to venture out daily. Also keep in mind that reservations are generally recommended, particularly during peak season (December to April) and for popular restaurants like Flying Fishbone.

Zeerover: Where the Fresh Catch Meets Local Flavor

Our journey begins at Zeerover, a true Aruban institution located in Savaneta, a charming coastal town on the southern end of the island. Zeerover, meaning “Pirate” in Dutch, is a no-frills, waterfront shack where the experience is as much about the atmosphere as it is about the food. Here’s what to expect:

• The Order Process: Upon arrival, you’ll likely encounter a line. Don’t be discouraged! This is part of the Zeerover experience. You order your seafood by weight. Typically, you have a choice between fresh fried whole fish (usually wahoo, mahi-mahi, or snapper) and shrimp. You can also order sides like fries, plantains (banana hasa), and pan bati (a traditional Aruban pancake).
• The Ambiance: The atmosphere is incredibly casual. You order at the counter, and then find a seat at one of the picnic tables overlooking the water. You might be sharing a table with other guests, adding to the communal feel. Watch fishermen bring in their catch, kids playing, and enjoy the refreshing ocean breeze.
• The Food: The seafood is incredibly fresh. Because the fish is bought directly from local fishermen, the type of fish available can vary. The fish and shrimp are deep-fried to a golden crisp and seasoned perfectly. The price is incredibly reasonable, making it a very budget-friendly option. Expect to pay around $20-30 USD for a generous portion of fish and shrimp for two people, plus sides and drinks. They only accept cash; so be sure to come prepared.
• Getting There: It’s best to research directions before heading to Zeerover. The address is Savaneta 270, Savaneta, Aruba. By car, it’s about a 30-40 minute drive from the Palm Beach/Eagle Beach area. Parking can sometimes be a challenge, especially during peak hours (lunch and dinner on weekends).
• Pro Tip: Go early! Zeerover can get very crowded, especially on weekends. Arriving for lunch before noon or for dinner before 6 PM will help you avoid the longest lines. Don’t be afraid to ask the staff what the fresh catch of the day is.

Red Fish: A Worthy Successor to Zeerover

If Zeerover is too packed or you’re looking for a slightly more polished experience without sacrificing the local vibe and fresh seafood, Red Fish is an excellent alternative near Palm Beach. It’s a great spot for families looking for affordable seafood. Located near the high-rise hotels, Red Fish offers a similar menu of fried seafood and local dishes, but with table service and a more extensive selection. Red Fish is usually easier to find parking than Zeerover. Expect to pay a bit more than Zeerover, but still significantly less than the upscale seafood restaurants closer to the tourist areas.

Aqua Grill: Elevated Seafood Dining

For a more upscale seafood experience, Aqua Grill, located near Palm Beach, combines fresh catches with a sophisticated atmosphere. Their menu features a wide variety of seafood dishes, from grilled fish and lobster to seafood pasta and sushi. The restaurant boats both indoor and outdoor seating in a courtyard. It’s a well-known restaurant, especially if you want to experience seafood in a polished setting. This comes with a much higher price tag than Zeerover or Red Fish, expect to pay $50+ per person for dinner, excluding drinks.

Pinchos Grill & Bar: Seafood with a Sunset View

Pinchos Grill & Bar offers a unique dining experience with its over-the-water setting and stunning sunset views. Located on a pier in Oranjestad, Pinchos focuses on grilled seafood and cocktails. It’s the perfect place for a romantic dinner or a special occasion. Expect to pay around $40-60 USD per person, excluding drinks.

• Ambiance is Key: The pier is adorned with string lights, creating a romantic and intimate atmosphere. Make sure to arrive before sunset to fully appreciate the view.
• Menu Highlights: While they offer a variety of dishes, their grilled seafood skewers (pinchos) are a popular choice. The coconut shrimp is also a crowd-pleaser.
• Reservations are Essential: Due to its popularity and limited seating, reservations are highly recommended, especially if you want a table with a prime view.

Flying Fishbone: The Ultimate Feet-in-the-Sand Dining Experience

Our seafood journey culminates at Flying Fishbone, arguably one of Aruba’s most iconic restaurants. Located in Savaneta, this restaurant is renowned for its unique dining experience: tables set directly on the beach, with your feet sinking into the soft sand as you enjoy a gourmet seafood meal. Here’s what makes Flying Fishbone so special:

• Location, Location, Location: The restaurant is situated on the beach, offering breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea. The tables are artfully arranged, some directly in the water, creating an unforgettable ambiance. Make sure to request a table in the water when you make your reservation.
• Ambiance: As the sun sets, the restaurant is illuminated with soft lighting, creating a magical and romantic atmosphere. The sound of the waves lapping against the shore adds to the charm.
• Menu: Flying Fishbone boasts a sophisticated menu featuring a blend of Caribbean and European flavors. The seafood dishes are expertly prepared and beautifully presented. Dishes like the Aruban Seafood Casserole and the Grilled Grouper are popular choices. Note that the menu varies seasonally.
• Price: Flying Fishbone is one of the most expensive restaurants in Aruba. Expect to pay upwards of $75-100 USD per person for dinner, excluding drinks. However, the experience is often considered worth the splurge for a special occasion.
• Reservations: Reservations are absolutely essential, and should be made well in advance, especially if you want a table in the water. You can make reservations online through their website or by phone. When booking, specifically request a table “in the water.”
• What to Wear: The dress code is smart casual. While you’ll be barefoot in the sand, it’s still a nice dining environment, so opt for a dress or collared shirt (no swimsuits).
• Navigating the Water: Be prepared that you’ll be sitting in the water. The water depth varies depending on the tide, but it usually reaches around ankle to calf deep. Some people choose to wear water shoes, but most go barefoot. Be mindful of your belongings and try not to drop anything in the water!
• Transportation: Flying Fishbone is about a 40-minute drive from the Palm Beach area. Consider hiring a taxi or renting a car. Many people opt to take a taxi so they can enjoy cocktails without worrying about driving.

Beyond the Mainstream: Hidden Seafood Gems

While Zeerover, Aqua Grill, Pinchos, Red Fish, and Flying Fishbone are excellent choices, Aruba has many other seafood restaurants worth exploring. Venture off the beaten path to discover local favorites and hidden gems. Many smaller restaurants in Oranjestad and San Nicolas offer delicious and authentic Aruban seafood dishes at affordable prices.

Budget-Friendly Seafood Options

Seafood doesn’t have to break the bank in Aruba. Besides Zeerover, several other options offer fresh and tasty seafood at reasonable prices. Look for local restaurants in the smaller towns and fishing villages. Supermarkets like Super Food Plaza also offer fresh seafood that you can grill yourself (though this removes the restaurant experience).

Understanding the Fish: A Guide to Aruban Seafood

Familiarizing yourself with the types of fish commonly served in Aruba will enhance your dining experience. Here are a few popular choices:

• Wahoo: A firm, white fish with a mild flavor. Often served grilled, fried, or blackened.
• Mahi-Mahi (Dorado): Another firm, white fish with a slightly sweeter flavor than wahoo. Versatile and can be prepared in various ways.
• Grouper: A flaky, white fish with a delicate flavor. A popular choice for grilling or pan-frying.
• Snapper: A red-skinned fish with a firm, white flesh and a slightly sweet flavor. Often served whole and grilled or fried.
• Conch: A chewy shellfish with a distinctive flavor. Often served in stews, fritters, or ceviche.
• Shrimp: Available in various sizes and preparations. Grilled, fried, or sautéed.
• Lobster: A luxurious treat, often grilled or steamed.

Mastering Aruban Dining Etiquette

While Aruba is a very welcoming and tourist-friendly island, it’s always good to be mindful of local customs and etiquette when dining. Tipping is customary, usually around 15-20% for good service. Dress codes vary depending on the restaurant, but smart casual is generally acceptable. It’s also polite to greet the staff with a “Bon dia” (Good morning), “Bon tardi” (Good afternoon), or “Bon nochi” (Good evening) when you arrive.

Planning Your Seafood Itinerary: Practical Tips

To make the most of your seafood adventure in Aruba, consider these practical tips:

• Make Reservations: As mentioned earlier, reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak season and for popular restaurants. Book well in advance to secure your desired time and table.
• Rent a Car: While taxis are readily available, renting a car will give you the flexibility to explore different parts of the island and discover hidden seafood gems.
• Check Reviews and Ratings: Before making a reservation, read reviews on sites like TripAdvisor and Google Reviews to get insights into other diners’ experiences.
• Be Prepared for Island Time: Service in Aruba can be a bit more relaxed than what you’re used to. Be patient and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere.
• Consider Happy Hour: Many bars and restaurants offer happy hour specials on drinks and appetizers. This is a great way to sample different flavors and save some money.
• Ask Locals for Recommendations: Don’t be afraid to ask locals for their favorite seafood spots. They can often point you to hidden gems that aren’t listed in guidebooks.
• Learn a Few Basic Papiamento Phrases: While English is widely spoken in Aruba, learning a few basic Papiamento phrases will be appreciated by the locals. “Masha Danki” (Thank you) and “Por fabor” (Please) are good starting points.
• Factor in Travel Time: Aruba may seem small, but traffic can sometimes be heavy, especially during rush hour. Factor in extra travel time when planning your restaurant visits.

Beyond the Plate: Seafood Sustainability in Aruba

As responsible travelers, it’s important to be mindful of the impact our dining choices have on the environment. When ordering seafood in Aruba, consider asking your server about the source of the fish and whether it’s sustainably caught. Opting for locally sourced seafood helps support the local economy and reduces the environmental impact of transportation. Some restaurants are starting to embrace sustainable practices, so look for those that prioritize responsible sourcing and fishing methods.

Alternative Dining: Fishing Charters and “Catch of the Day”

Consider a fishing charter trip if you’re particularly adventurous and want to source your own fresh seafood. Many companies offer half-day and full-day fishing trips where you can try your luck at catching wahoo, mahi-mahi, or tuna. Some charters will even prepare your catch for you on board! Alternatively, look for restaurants that feature a “catch of the day” special. This is a great way to try the freshest seafood available and support local fishermen.

Seafood and Health: Considerations for Dietary Needs

If you have any dietary restrictions or allergies, be sure to inform your server when ordering. Most restaurants in Aruba are accommodating and can adjust their dishes to meet your needs. Seafood is a generally healthy option, providing a good source of protein and omega-3 fatty acids. However, be mindful of the preparation methods, as fried seafood can be high in calories and fat. Grilled, baked, or steamed seafood are healthier alternatives.

The Art of Aruban Cuisine: Fusion and Creativity

Aruban cuisine is a vibrant blend of Dutch, Spanish, African, and Caribbean influences. This fusion is evident in the seafood dishes, which often incorporate local ingredients and spices. Look for dishes that feature Keshi Yena (a cheese-stuffed casserole), Pan Bati (Aruban pancake), or Funchi (cornmeal porridge). These traditional dishes offer a taste of Aruba’s unique culinary heritage.

Preserving the Taste: Bringing Aruban Flavors Home

Want to relive your Aruban seafood adventure after you return home? Consider purchasing some local spices or hot sauces to recreate the flavors of the island. Supermarkets and souvenir shops offer a variety of Aruban products that you can take home with you. You can also try to find Aruban cookbooks online or in stores. While you can’t replicate the exact ambiance of dining on the beach at Flying Fishbone, you can still savor the taste of Aruba in your own kitchen.

FAQ Section

What is the best time to visit Aruba for seafood lovers?

The best time to visit Aruba for seafood lovers is generally during the off-season months (May to November). The weather is still pleasant, but the crowds are smaller, and prices are often lower than during peak season. This means shorter wait times at popular restaurants and more availability for reservations.

Are there any vegetarian or vegan seafood options in Aruba?

While Aruba is known for its seafood, you can find vegetarian and vegan options at many restaurants. Some restaurants offer vegetarian pasta dishes, salads, or vegetable skewers. Look for restaurants that offer plant-based protein options like tofu or tempeh. If you are a vegan, call the restaurant in advance to make your dietary needs known.

Is the tap water safe to drink in Aruba?

Yes, the tap water in Aruba is safe to drink. Aruba has a state-of-the-art desalination plant that produces high-quality drinking water. However, some people prefer to drink bottled water, which is readily available at supermarkets and convenience stores.

What currency is used in Aruba?

The official currency of Aruba is the Aruban Florin (AWG). However, U.S. dollars are widely accepted throughout the island. Credit cards are also accepted at most restaurants and businesses, but it’s always a good idea to carry some cash for smaller establishments and local markets.

Do I need a visa to travel to Aruba?

Visa requirements for Aruba depend on your nationality. Check the official website of the Aruba Department of Immigration for the latest visa information. Generally, citizens of the United States, Canada, and most European countries do not need a visa for stays of up to 30 days.

References

1. Aruba Tourism Authority.
2. TripAdvisor Aruba Restaurant Reviews.

Ready to embark on your Aruban seafood adventure? Book your flights, reserve your restaurants, and prepare your taste buds for an unforgettable culinary experience on the One Happy Island. Don’t just dream about it – make it happen!