Hawaii’s ancient temples, known as heiau, are powerful reminders of a complex and deeply spiritual past. These sacred sites, often built on dramatic landscapes, were central to Hawaiian life, serving as places of worship, governance, and connection to the gods. Exploring these heiau offers a profound glimpse into the culture, beliefs, and history of the Hawaiian people. These sites are found throughout the islands and offer diverse experiences, from remote, weathered stone platforms to meticulously restored complexes.
What are Heiau?
Essentially, a heiau was a Hawaiian temple or place of worship. But it was far more than just a building. Think of it as the heart of the community – a place where important decisions were made, ceremonies were held, and the connection between the people and their gods was strengthened. These structures were constructed by a huge amount of manpower, requiring detailed planning. They differed in size and function. Some were dedicated to agriculture and prosperity (like the Mapele Heiau), while others were used for war and human sacrifice, like the infamous Pu’ukoholā Heiau. Others still were used for healing (Hoola Heiau). They are visible proof of a complex and structured society. Each heiau’s layout, construction materials, and specific uses reflected the importance of hierarchy within the ancient Hawaiian social structure.
Pu’ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site: A Temple of War
Let’s start with one of the most significant and well-known heiau on the Big Island: Pu’ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site. This temple is impressive, not just in its physical size but also in its historical significance. Kamehameha I, the ruler who unified the Hawaiian Islands, built Pu’ukoholā Heiau, prophesied that if he rebuilt this heiau, he would conquer all the islands. Building the massive heiau required an enormous effort, with thousands of people hand-carrying stones from the Pololū Valley, approximately 20 miles away. Construction took about a year, and in 1791, it was completed with human sacrifices. It stands as a testament to Kamehameha’s ambition and strategic genius. Today, the National Park Service maintains the site, offering guided tours and educational programs. Exploring the site with a park ranger is your best bet, as they weave stories that make the stones come alive, highlighting the prophecies, the construction, and the sacrifices made. It’s a captivating journey into a pivotal moment in Hawaiian history.
Practicalities: Admission is free, and the park is usually open daily, though hours may vary, so check the National Park Service website for updates before you go. Wear comfortable shoes – you’ll be walking on uneven ground. Bring water and sunscreen. The visitor center provides restrooms and exhibits.
Directions: Pu’ukoholā Heiau is located off Highway 270 near Kawaihae Harbor on the Kohala Coast of the Big Island. From Kona, take Highway 19 north, then turn onto Highway 270. The park entrance will be on your left.
‘Iolani Heiau: Honolulu’s Historic Temple
Tucked away in the heart of Honolulu, just a short walk from the State Capitol Building, lies ‘Iolani Heiau. This ancient temple, predating most others on O’ahu, is an integral part of the ‘Iolani Palace grounds and offers a unique perspective on the history of the area. It’s thought to have been rebuilt by King Kamehameha I around 1812 after he conquered O’ahu. While the temple structure itself is no longer visible, the site is marked and interpreted to illustrate its historical significance. It served primarily as a luakini heiau – a site for royal rituals, including those related to war, and human sacrifice. If you explore this area through the palace tour, you can learn a detailed explanation of the importance of the heiau. Given its location, it’s an easy addition to any Honolulu sightseeing itinerary. Consider combining a visit to ‘Iolani Heiau with a tour of the ‘Iolani Palace for added context.
Practicalities: Access to the ‘Iolani Heiau site itself is free and open to the public during park hours. Paid tours may include information about it. Check the ‘Iolani Palace website for current hours and tour information.
Directions: Located on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace in downtown Honolulu. From Waikiki, take Ala Moana Boulevard to Richards Street. The ‘Iolani Palace is on the left, and the heiau site is on the palace grounds.
Ulupō Heiau State Historic Site: A Lakeside Mystery
On the island of O’ahu, set in the town of Kailua, lies Ulupō Heiau State Historic Site. It is a large platform-style heiau. This heiau has a somewhat mysterious past, with legends connecting it to the Menehune, the mythical little people of Hawaiian folklore, who built it in a single night. However, most historians now attribute its construction to ancient Hawaiian chiefs. Ulupō, meaning “inspired”, was dedicated to agricultural purposes. The temple sits by a freshwater spring and was thus very important for food production. Over time, it may have shifted in function as it was also associated with war. The massive structure stands about 30 feet tall. It offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. Although less visited than some other sites, Ulupō Heiau provides a serene and reflective experience, connecting you to the natural beauty and history of Kailua.
Practicalities: Admission to Ulupō Heiau State Historic Site is free. It is open daily. The site is not staffed. So, it is best to bring your own water. Be prepared for minimal shade so consider bringing a hat or umbrella. There are information signs to help provide context. The surrounding area can have mosquitos so insect repellent could be helpful. The parking is adjacent to the YMCA or about 100 feet away.
Directions: From Honolulu, take the Pali Highway (Highway 61) towards Kailua. Continue on Kailua Road, then turn left onto Ulupō Drive. The heiau is located near the YMCA, at the base of a residential area.
Kaneaki Heiau: A Restored Treasure
Located in the lush hills of West O’ahu, Kaneaki Heiau is one of the most meticulously restored heiau in the Hawaiian island chain. This impressive restoration offers visitors a unique opportunity to experience what an ancient Hawaiian temple may have looked like centuries ago. Kaneaki Heiau, which translates to “Kane Stands Erect,” was dedicated to the god Kane, symbolizing creation. The construction of Kaneaki Heiau is credited to a chief named Kūkaniloko. The temple initially served as an agricultural place of worship. The temple later became a war temple in the late 18th century. Its restoration involved extensive research and the use of traditional building techniques. The site features a reconstructed temple platform (Pahū), hale (houses), and altar (Lele), all surrounded by a stone wall offering a visual glimpse into ancient Hawaiian life. Knowledgeable guides lead tours, sharing fascinating details about the heiau’s history, its spiritual significance, and the techniques used in its rebuilding. It’s like stepping back in time.
Practicalities: Admission is free. The temple is open Tuesdays to Saturdays. Guided tours are typically offered. It’s best to confirm tour times and availability directly with the staff or on their website. It’s a good idea to wear comfortable shoes, as you’ll be walking on rocky and dirt paths.
Directions: From Honolulu, take the H-1 freeway west to the Farrington Highway (Highway 93). Follow Highway 93 towards Waianae, and the heiau is located at the end of Heiakala Road. You’ll find it near the Paradise Cove Luau.
Pi’ilanihale Heiau: The Largest Temple
Located on Maui, Pi’ilanihale Heiau is not only one of the most significant ancient structures on the Valley Isle but also the largest heiau, measured by area, in all of Polynesia! Its dimensions are immense – roughly the size of a football field (about 3 acres). Pi’ilanihale Heiau is located within the lush, tropical confines of Kahanu Garden, part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. The age and origins of Pi’ilanihale Heiau are still being studied. But it is believed to have been constructed in stages over several centuries, beginning as early as the 14th century. The heiau is dedicated to the worship of the gods of agriculture and fertility. The structure is very impressive, rising to a height of approximately 50 feet. The heiau is a testament to the sheer scale of ancient Hawaiian engineering and cultural investment in agriculture and prosperity. Walking along the perimeter of the heiau (access to the top may be restricted for preservation purposes) is a humbling experience. The garden also offers a fascinating look at Polynesian flora and other cultural exhibits. Given the location, a guided garden tour offers an enriching journey into the cultural and botanical diversity of Hawaii.
Practicalities: A fee is charged for admission to Kahanu Garden (where Pi’ilanihale Heiau is located). It is typically open on weekdays and some weekend days. Confirm opening hours and tour availability on their official website before you visit. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and be prepared for potential rain, as the area is in a rainforest environment that also has mosquitos. Insect repellent can be very helpful.
Directions: From Kahului Airport, drive east on the Hana Highway (Highway 36). Continue on the Hana Highway to mile marker 31. Turn into Kahanu Garden.
Kuaihelani Heiau on Kauai
Kauai, nicknamed the Garden Isle for its gorgeous lush landscapes, is also home to some incredible ancient sites. One of these hidden gems is Kuaihelani Heiau. It stands as a testament to the deep-rooted spiritual and historical connections of the native Hawaiians to the land. The structure is situated on a hill with panoramic views. The temple, like many ancient luakini heiau, was a place where complex rituals were performed and where ali’i (chiefs) would dedicate their worship to the gods. The area provides stunning panoramic views of Waimea Canyon and the surrounding mountains. So the temple was likely used to observe the stars and seasons. Kuaihelani Heiau speaks silently of a time when the natural world and the spiritual realm were closely intertwined.
Practicalities: There is no fee involved in visiting Kuaihelani Heiau. It is accessible year-round during daylight hours. However, it is recommended to check the weather conditions before visiting, as the roads to the heiau can become muddy and difficult to navigate after heavy rain. Because it is not a highly maintained tourist site, there are no facilities. Make sure to wear appropriate hiking shoes as there are unpaved, steep sections leading to the site.
Directions: From Waimea town, take Waimea Canyon Drive (Highway 550) mauka (uphill). Drive for about 8 miles. Turn right onto a dirt road (look for a small, often unmarked opening in the vegetation). The heiau is a short hike up the hill. The hike requires some steep climbs. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended as the dirt road can be rough. Due to its remote location, it is best to visit during daylight hours; GPS coordinates can be useful for finding the trailhead.
Tips For Visiting Heiau
Exploring heiau offers a unique opportunity to connect with Hawaiian history and culture, and there are ways to make the experience more meaningful and respectful. Here are a few tips to consider:
- Do your research: Before visiting a heiau, take some time to learn about its history, significance, and any specific protocols. Don’t rely on speculation. Instead, check official park websites or reputable sources.
- Dress respectfully: When visiting a heiau, it’s important to dress modestly. Avoid swimwear or overly revealing clothing. Think like you’re visiting a sacred place.
- Stay on marked paths: To protect these fragile sites, stick to designated trails and avoid climbing on the stone structures. Many heiau are in fragile condition, and off-trail exploration can cause damage.
- Leave only footprints: Don’t remove any stones or artifacts from the site. Leave any natural elements untouched. Help preserve the heiau by removing trash and disturbing as little as possible.
- Respect the silence: Heiau are places of reverence and reflection. Avoid loud noises and disruptive behavior. Be mindful of others who are there to connect with the site’s spiritual significance.
- Ask before photographing: Some places may restrict or forbid commercial photography.
- Engage with respect: Participate in guided tours or talk to local guides to learn more about the heiau. Listen respectfully to their stories and be open to understanding the cultural significance.
Heiau Misconceptions
Over time, several misconceptions about heiau have gained traction, often leading to misunderstandings of their true nature and importance. Let’s try to clarify a few:
- Are all heiau sites of human sacrifice? This is a major misconception. Not all heiau were used for human sacrifice. Certain types of heiau, like the luakini heiau, were indeed associated with such practices, particularly during times of war or significant social stress. The majority of heiau served other purposes, such as agriculture, healing, or community governance.
- Are the temples always well-maintained? While some heiau, like Kaneaki Heiau, have undergone extensive restoration, many others remain in a state of disrepair. Most heiau are not tourist attractions by design and are often preserved as historical sites without modern intervention.
- Are they places of great evil? Many view temples of sacrifice as intrinsically evil. However, it’s crucial to understand the cultural context. These places, while associated with practices that may seem abhorrent today, were integral to the social and spiritual lives of ancient Hawaiians.
FAQ Section
Here are some frequently asked questions about Hawaiian Heiau:
Why were heiau built in Hawaii?
Heiau were built for a variety of reasons, reflecting the multifaceted nature of ancient Hawaiian society. They served as places of worship where offerings and prayers were made to the gods. This was done to ensure good harvests, success in war, and overall well-being. They were also centers of social and political power.
How many heiau remain in Hawaii?
It’s difficult to give an exact number, but it’s estimated that there were once hundreds of heiau throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Many have been lost, destroyed, or are in ruins, but dozens of significant heiau sites are still visible today. Archaeological surveys continue to uncover new sites and provide a better understanding of the distribution and density of heiau across the islands.
Are heiau still used for religious purposes today?
While ancient heiau practices are not widely observed in their traditional forms, some Native Hawaiians and cultural practitioners continue to use these sites for ceremonies. They seek to honor their ancestors, connect with the land, and perpetuate traditional customs.
Can I visit a heiau respectfully if I am not Hawaiian?
Yes, absolutely. All visitors are welcome to explore heiau respectfully. To do so, learn about the heiau’s history, dress modestly, stay on marked paths, avoid loud noises, and refrain from touching or removing stones or artifacts.
References
- Kirch, P. V. (2010). How Chiefs Became Kings: Divine Kingship and Social Evolution on the Hawaiian Islands. University of California Press.
- Kamakau, S. M. (1976). The Works of the People of Old: Na Hana a ka Po’e Kahiko. Bishop Museum Press.
- Luomala, K. (1951). The Menehune of Polynesia and Other Mythical Little People of Oceania. Bishop Museum Press.
- National Park Service. (n.d.). Pu’ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site.
Respect and appreciation are vital as you explore the heiau of Hawai’i. These sites aren’t just old rocks – they represent centuries of tradition, spirituality, and culture. They whisper stories of chiefs, gods, and the daily lives of the Hawaiian people. So, before you plan your trip, consider this: will you simply be a tourist, or will you be a respectful visitor, eager to learn and connect with the rich history these sacred grounds hold? Start planning your journey now, delve deeper into the history of each site, and ensure your visit is one of reverence and discovery. When you travel, remember to approach these locations with respect, curiosity, and a genuine desire to understand the past. You’ll not only enrich your own experience but also help preserve these invaluable treasures for generations to come. Go on, experience the mana of Hawaii’s heiau for yourself!
