Exuma, Bahamas, is bonefishing heaven. With seemingly endless flats, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and a healthy population of these “ghosts of the flats,” it’s a dream destination for anglers obsessed with the challenge and thrill of stalking bonefish. This guide dives deep into everything you need to know to plan the perfect bonefishing trip to Exuma, from tackle and techniques to the best guides and lodges.
Understanding the Exuma Bonefishing Landscape
Exuma isn’t just one island; it’s a chain of over 365 cays and islands, each offering its unique charm and fishing opportunities. Great Exuma is the largest and most populated, serving as the main hub for accommodations, restaurants, and amenities. Little Exuma, connected by a bridge, is quieter and offers more secluded flats. The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, although a protected area with limited fishing access, contributes to the overall health of the ecosystem and supports abundant marine life, indirectly benefiting the bonefish population.
The Flats: A Bonefisherman’s Playground
The flats around Exuma are primarily sand and marl, providing excellent wading opportunities. You’ll find everything from ankle-deep shallows to deeper channels where bonefish cruise in search of food. Knowing where to find fish depends on the tide, weather, and time of year.
Low Tide: Look for bonefish tailing in the shallowest areas, often near mangrove edges or small sandbars. They are concentrating in limited space, so stealth and accuracy are crucial.
Incoming Tide: As the tide rises, bonefish move onto the flats following the advancing water. This is often a productive time as they are actively feeding and less wary.
High Tide: Bonefish can be more dispersed at high tide, making them harder to locate. Focus on areas with deeper channels, creek mouths, and edges of mangroves.
Outgoing Tide: Bonefish will often move back towards deeper water as the tide recedes. Look for them along channel edges or near drop-offs.
Weather Conditions: Calm, sunny days are ideal for spotting bonefish. Overcast days can make it more challenging to see them, but they might be less skittish. Wind can also make casting difficult, so consider bringing wind-resistant fly lines.
Essential Tackle for Exuma Bonefish
Selecting the right gear is crucial for success on the Exuma flats. Here’s a breakdown of the essential tackle:
Rods: A 9-foot, 8-weight rod is the standard for bonefishing in Exuma. It provides enough power to cast in windy conditions and handle larger bonefish, which can reach impressive sizes here. Consider a fast-action rod for better line speed and accuracy, especially in windy conditions. Brands like Orvis, Sage, and Scott offer excellent options.
Reels: Choose a reel with a smooth, reliable drag system and enough capacity for at least 200 yards of backing. Bonefish are powerful runners, and a good drag is essential for preventing them from spooling you. Look for reels specifically designed for saltwater use, as they are more resistant to corrosion. Reliable options include Hatch, Abel, and Tibor reels.
Lines: A weight-forward floating bonefish line is the most versatile choice for Exuma. Opt for a line with a long head for delicate presentations or one with a shorter, more aggressive taper for punching casts through the wind. Consider bringing two lines: one for calm conditions and one for windy days. Brands like Rio Bonefish Line and Airflo offer specialized bonefish lines.
Leaders and Tippet: Use a tapered leader of 9 to 12 feet in length, with a tippet of 10-12 pound test fluorocarbon. Fluorocarbon is nearly invisible underwater, making it less likely to spook the fish. Carry different sizes of tippet to adjust to the water clarity and the size of the flies you are using. A leader system like the Scientific Anglers Amplitude Bonefish Leader is a good starting point.
Flies: Bonefish flies should imitate the small crustaceans and invertebrates that bonefish feed on. Here are some must-have patterns for Exuma:
- Crazy Charlie: A classic bonefish fly that imitates a shrimp or small crab. Available in various sizes and colors (tan, pink, white).
- Gotcha: Another versatile pattern that works well in a variety of conditions.
- Bonefish Bitters: A smaller fly that can be effective when bonefish are spooky or the water is clear.
- Squimp: A shrimp imitation that can be tied with or without weight.
- Clouser Minnow: While not a traditional bonefish fly, a smaller Clouser can be effective in slightly deeper water or when bonefish are feeding on small baitfish.
Carry a variety of sizes and colors in your fly box to match the conditions and the preferences of the fish. Sizes 4, 6, and 8 are good starting points. Remember to pinch the barbs on your hooks.
Essential Accessories
Don’t forget these essential accessories:
- Polarized Sunglasses: Amber or copper lenses are ideal for spotting bonefish in the glare of the sun. High-quality sunglasses are a must-have.
- Wading Boots: Protect your feet from sharp coral and rocks. Choose a sturdy pair with good ankle support.
- Wading Pants or Long Pants: Protect your legs from the sun and biting insects. Lightweight, quick-drying fabrics are ideal.
- Sunscreen: The Bahamian sun is intense. Use a high SPF sunscreen and reapply frequently.
- Hat: A wide-brimmed hat provides shade and helps to reduce glare.
- Buff or Face Mask: Protect your face and neck from the sun and wind.
- Pliers or Hook Remover: Essential for safely removing hooks from fish.
- Clippers: For trimming tippet and leader material.
- Water Bottle or Hydration Pack: Stay hydrated in the hot sun.
- First-Aid Kit: Be prepared for minor injuries.
- Camera: Capture those unforgettable bonefishing moments.
Bonefishing Techniques for Exuma
Bonefishing is a game of stealth, accuracy, and patience. Here are some essential techniques for success on the Exuma flats:
Spotting Bonefish
The ability to spot bonefish is crucial. Look for subtle movements, shadows, or flashes of silver. Focus your eyes on the water’s surface and try to filter out the glare. Polarized sunglasses are essential for this. Bonefish often travel in schools, so if you see one, there are likely others nearby. Look for “nervous water,” which is a subtle disturbance on the surface caused by fish moving below.
Casting Accurately
Accuracy is key. Bonefish are easily spooked, so you need to be able to place your fly in the right spot with minimal disturbance. Practice your casting before your trip to improve your accuracy and distance. A common mistake is to cast directly at the fish, which can spook them. Instead, cast slightly ahead of the fish and let the fly sink to the bottom. Strip the fly slowly and steadily to imitate a natural presentation.
Presenting the Fly
The presentation of your fly is critical. Bonefish are wary creatures, and they will reject a fly that doesn’t look natural. Use a long, delicate leader to minimize the visibility of the line. Make sure your fly is clean and free of debris. Observe the bonefish’s behavior and adjust your presentation accordingly. If they are moving quickly, strip the fly faster. If they are moving slowly, strip the fly slower.
Stripping the Fly
When a bonefish takes your fly, don’t lift your rod tip like you would with a trout. Instead, strip the line sharply with your stripping hand. This sets the hook securely in the bonefish’s mouth. Keep the rod tip low and to the side to avoid breaking the fish off. Once the bonefish is hooked, let it run. Bonefish are incredibly fast and powerful, and they will often make long, blistering runs. Allow the reel’s drag to do its job.
Fighting a Bonefish
Fighting a bonefish is an exhilarating experience. Keep the rod tip up and maintain a steady pressure on the fish. Be prepared for long runs and sudden changes in direction. Use the reel’s drag to tire the fish out. Once the fish is close to you, be careful not to horse it in. Let it make a few more runs before you bring it to hand. Handle the fish gently and quickly release it back into the water.
Top Bonefishing Guides and Lodges in Exuma
Hiring a local guide is highly recommended, especially for first-timers. Guides have intimate knowledge of the flats, tides, and bonefish behavior, significantly increasing your chances of success. They also provide valuable instruction and ensure your safety on the water.
Recommended Guides
- Bonefish Stevie Ferguson: Widely regarded as one of the best bonefish guides in Exuma. Stevie has decades of experience and a deep understanding of the local waters.
- Emmerson Harding: Another highly respected guide with a reputation for finding fish and providing excellent instruction.
- Elvis Rolle: Known for his friendly demeanor and his ability to put clients on bonefish, even in challenging conditions.
Guide rates typically range from $450 to $600 per day for two anglers, including boat, fuel, and lunch. Booking well in advance is essential, especially during peak season (October to May).
Recommended Lodges and Accommodations
Exuma offers a range of accommodations to suit different budgets and preferences.
- Grand Isle Resort & Residences: A luxury resort with stunning villas and a range of amenities, including a private beach, golf course, and spa. Located near the airport and offers easy access to the flats.
- Sandals Emerald Bay: An all-inclusive resort with luxurious accommodations, multiple restaurants, and a range of activities. A good option for anglers who want a relaxing vacation with some fishing.
- Hideaways at Palm Bay: A more affordable option with comfortable cottages and a beautiful beach. Located closer to Georgetown and offers easy access to restaurants and shops.
- Airbnb: A great option for finding private villas and apartments. Offers a wide range of prices and locations.
Grand Isle Resort & Residences
Consider booking accommodations near Georgetown or Rolleville for easy access to guides and the flats. Many guides offer pick-up services from your hotel or villa.
Planning Your Exuma Bonefishing Trip
Planning your trip in advance will ensure a smoother and more enjoyable experience.
Best Time to Go
The peak season for bonefishing in Exuma is from October to May. During these months, the weather is generally dry and sunny, and the bonefish are active. The summer months (June to September) can be hot and humid, with a higher chance of rain and tropical storms. However, the bonefishing can still be good during the summer, and you may find fewer crowds and lower prices.
Getting to Exuma
Lynden Pindling International Airport (NAS) in Nassau is the main international gateway to the Bahamas. From Nassau, you can take a short connecting flight to Exuma International Airport (GGT) in Great Exuma. Several airlines offer flights to Exuma, including Bahamasair, American Airlines, and Delta.
Getting Around Exuma
Renting a car is the best way to explore Exuma. Several rental car companies operate at the airport. Taxis are also available, but they can be expensive. Consider renting a four-wheel-drive vehicle if you plan to explore the more remote areas of the island.
Permits and Regulations
A fishing license is not required for recreational bonefishing in the Bahamas. However, it’s essential to be aware of the fishing regulations and to practice responsible fishing practices. Catch and release is strongly encouraged to help conserve the bonefish population.
Cost of a Bonefishing Trip to Exuma
The cost of a bonefishing trip to Exuma can vary depending on your choice of accommodation, guide, and activities. Here’s a rough estimate:
- Flights: $400 – $800 per person (round trip)
- Accommodation: $100 – $500+ per night
- Guide: $450 – $600 per day (for two anglers)
- Car Rental: $50 – $100 per day
- Food and Drink: $50 – $100 per person per day
- Miscellaneous Expenses: $100 – $200
A week-long bonefishing trip to Exuma can cost anywhere from $3,000 to $10,000+ per person, depending on your budget and preferences.
Beyond Bonefishing: Other Activities in Exuma
While bonefishing is the main attraction, Exuma offers a range of other activities to enjoy during your trip.
- Swimming with Pigs: A unique and unforgettable experience. Several tour operators offer trips to Pig Beach, where you can swim with the famous swimming pigs.
- Thunderball Grotto: A stunning underwater cave system that was featured in several James Bond movies. Snorkeling and diving are popular activities here.
- Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park: A protected area with pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and abundant marine life. Boating, snorkeling, and diving are popular activities here. Note that fishing is restricted in certain parts of the park.
- Beaches: Exuma is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Stocking Island, Coco Plum Beach and Tropic of Cancer Beach are just a few of the options.
- Snorkeling and Diving: Explore the vibrant coral reefs and abundant marine life around Exuma. Several dive shops offer trips to various dive sites.
- Kayaking and Paddleboarding: Explore the mangroves and shallow waters around Exuma. Kayaks and paddleboards can be rented from various locations.
- Island Hopping: Explore the other cays and islands in the Exuma chain. Several boat tours offer trips to various islands.
Responsible Bonefishing Practices
It’s crucial to practice responsible fishing practices to help conserve the bonefish population and protect the fragile ecosystem of the Exuma flats. The bonefish population is declining due to several factors, including habitat loss, overfishing, and pollution. By following these practices, you can help ensure that future generations can enjoy the thrill of bonefishing in Exuma:
- Catch and Release: Practice catch and release whenever possible. Bonefish are slow-growing and long-lived, and they are vulnerable to overfishing.
- Handle Fish Gently: Handle bonefish gently and minimize the amount of time they are out of the water. Use wet hands or a wet towel to handle the fish.
- Remove Hooks Carefully: Use pliers or a hook remover to carefully remove hooks from fish. Cut the leader if the hook is deeply embedded.
- Avoid Wading on Coral: Avoid wading on coral to protect it from damage. Use designated wading paths whenever possible.
- Dispose of Waste Properly: Dispose of all waste properly. Do not litter on the flats or in the water.
- Support Local Conservation Efforts: Support local conservation efforts to protect the bonefish population and the ecosystem of the Exuma flats.
Bonefishing in the Bahamas: Beyond Exuma
While Exuma might be the first island that comes to mind, the Bahamas offers a spectrum of bonefishing experiences across its diverse archipelago. For anglers seeking a more remote adventure, destinations like Andros Island lure with their expansive, untouched flats. Andros is known for its large bonefish and challenging fishing conditions, drawing anglers seeking solitude and trophy-sized catches. Places like Bimini, easily accessible from Florida, have a rich history intertwined with legendary anglers and offer a blend of classic bonefishing and vibrant island life. Acklins and Crooked Island are for truly intrepid anglers. These islands offer remote and unpressured fishing, but require significant planning and logistical considerations. Each island has its unique character, catering to different preferences and skill levels. Exploring these various options can significantly enhance the overall bonefishing experience, providing new challenges and unforgettable encounters.
FAQ Section
What is the best time of year to bonefish in Exuma?
The best time to bonefish in Exuma is generally from October to May. During these months, the weather is typically dry and sunny, and the bonefish are active. The water is also clearer, making it easier to spot fish. While the summer months can also be productive, the weather can be more unpredictable, with a higher likelihood of rain or tropical storms.
Do I need a guide to bonefish in Exuma?
While it’s possible to bonefish on your own in Exuma, hiring a local guide is highly recommended, especially for first-timers. Guides have intimate knowledge of the flats, tides, and bonefish behavior, significantly increasing your chances of success. They also ensure your safety on the water and can provide valuable instruction. Even experienced anglers can benefit from the expertise of a local guide.
What kind of gear do I need for bonefishing in Exuma?
You’ll need a 9-foot, 8-weight rod with a fast action. A reel with smooth drag and at least 200 yards of backing. Weight-forward floating bonefish line, tapered leaders 9-12 feet long with 10-12 pound fluorocarbon tippet. Take flies like Crazy Charlie, Gotcha, and Bonefish Bitters in sizes 4-8. Also, crucial are polarized sunglasses, wading boots and pants, sunscreen, a hat, pliers, clippers, and a camera.
How much does it cost to bonefish in Exuma?
The cost of a bonefishing trip to Exuma can vary depending on your choices. It could range from $3,000 to $10,000+ per person for a week-long trip. Flights, accommodation, guide services, car rental, and daily expenses all contribute to the overall cost. Booking in advance and choosing more budget-friendly options can help you save money.
Are there any other activities to do in Exuma besides bonefishing?
Yes! Exuma offers a range of other activities to enjoy during your trip. The swimming pigs are a very popular attraction, along with Thunderball Grotto and the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The gorgeous, pristine beaches are a must-see, and snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and island hopping are all great ways to explore the islands.
What are the responsible bonefishing practices I should follow in Exuma?
Always practice catch and release, handle fish gently, and remove hooks carefully. Avoid wading on coral, dispose of waste properly, and support local conservation efforts. These practices will ensure the sustainability of the bonefish population and the health of the ecosystem.
References
Bonefish and Tarpon Trust.
Orvis Fly Fishing.
Rio Products.
Scientific Anglers.
Ultimately, the best way to experience the magic of bonefishing in Exuma is not just to read about it, but to feel the tug, see the silver flash, and hear the whir of the reel as a bonefish takes off across the flats. Start planning your Exuma adventure today. Book that flight, contact a guide, and prepare for an unforgettable angling experience. The crystal-clear waters and wily bonefish of Exuma await!
