Sailing the Sir Francis Drake Channel in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a dream come true for beginner yachties. Imagine turquoise waters, consistent trade winds, and sheltered anchorages – it’s practically designed for learning the ropes. This guide takes you through everything you need to know to plan your BVI sailing adventure, from choosing the right boat to navigating the best snorkeling spots.
Getting Started: Bareboat vs. Crewed Charter
The first big decision is whether to go bareboat or crewed. Bareboat charter means you’re responsible for the boat, navigation, and everything else. It’s a fantastic option if you have some sailing experience and a qualified captain in your group. You’ll gain immense confidence and enjoy unparalleled freedom. Expect to spend anywhere from $3,000 to $15,000+ per week depending on the size and age of the boat. Companies like The Moorings and Sunsail are popular choices. They often require you to submit sailing resumes and demonstrate your competence.
A crewed charter, on the other hand, includes a captain and often a cook/mate. This is perfect for beginners who want to relax and learn without the pressure of being in charge. The captain handles the sailing and navigation, while the cook prepares meals. This option is pricier, typically starting around $8,000 per week and going up considerably based on the yacht’s size and level of luxury. The benefit? Utter relaxation and a wealth of local knowledge from your crew.
Required Skills and Certifications for Bareboat Charters
To charter a bareboat vessel, the charter companies will need to see proof that you know what you are doing! A recognised sailing certification is advantageous, but not always essential depending on their assessment of your sailing CV. The most recognised certifications include those from the Royal Yachting Association (RYA), American Sailing Association (ASA), and NauticEd. An ICC (International Certificate of Competence) may also be required. Even with a certification, charter companies will need details on your practical experience including miles sailed, size of vessels you have handled and types of cruising. If you do not have enough experience, consider a skippered charter (with you onboard doing the sailing) to build the experience you need.
Best Time to Sail the BVI
The best time to sail the BVI is during the dry season, from December to April. You’ll enjoy consistent trade winds (15-25 knots), sunny skies, and comfortable temperatures (around 80°F). This is peak season, so expect higher prices and book well in advance. The shoulder seasons (May-June and September-November) can also be excellent, offering fewer crowds and slightly lower prices. However, there’s a slightly higher chance of rain.
Hurricane season runs from June 1st to November 30th. While the BVI has excellent hurricane preparedness, it’s wise to avoid this period unless you’re experienced and comfortable with the risks. Keep an eye on weather forecasts and have a contingency plan.
Planning Your Itinerary: A Sample One-Week Route
Here’s a sample one-week itinerary perfect for beginner sailors in the BVI:
Day 1: Tortola (Road Town) to Norman Island. Pick up your boat at your chosen charter company in Road Town. After a thorough briefing on the boat’s systems and local regulations, set sail for Norman Island (approx. 6 nautical miles). This is a shakedown cruise, allowing you to get comfortable with the boat. Mooring balls are available in The Bight, a protected anchorage. Enjoy snorkeling at The Caves (bring your gear!) and have dinner at The William Thornton floating bar and restaurant – a BVI icon. Mooring cost is typically around $35 per night.
Day 2: Norman Island to Peter Island. A short sail to Peter Island (approx. 3 nautical miles). This island offers quieter anchorages. Deadman’s Bay is a beautiful beach with excellent snorkeling. Spend the afternoon swimming, relaxing, or exploring the island’s hiking trails. There are mooring balls available, but anchoring is also possible. Consider visiting the Peter Island Resort for a cocktail at sunset (reservations recommended).
Day 3: Peter Island to Virgin Gorda (The Baths). A longer sail to Virgin Gorda (approx. 12 nautical miles). The Baths are a must-see – giant granite boulders forming natural pools and grottoes. Arrive early to secure a mooring ball in the nearby bay (Spanish Town) and avoid the crowds. Explore The Baths, swim in the crystal-clear water, and take some stunning photos. The Baths National Park charges a small entry fee (around $8 per person). Consider a lunch ashore in Spanish Town.
Day 4: Virgin Gorda (The Baths) to Anegada. A longer open-water passage to Anegada (approx. 15 nautical miles). This is the only coral island in the BVI, and it’s known for its pristine beaches and abundant wildlife. Anchor in Setting Point and reserve dinner at either The Lobster Trap or Potter’s by the Sea. Explore the island by renting a jeep or scooter or taking a taxi tour of the salt ponds (where you can see flamingos!). Snorkel at Loblolly Bay; this snorkeling spot has an abundance of fish! The passage to Anegada requires careful navigation. It’s essential to check the weather forecast and be prepared for slightly bigger waves.
Day 5: Anegada to Guana Island/Cane Garden Bay. Sailing back from Anegada will depend on the wind angle. For a beam reach, sailing toward Guana Island (north of Tortola), then around to Cane Garden Bay will be a nice relaxing afternoon. Cane Garden Bay is a vibrant beach town with numerous bars and restaurants. Enjoy the local music and sample some Caribbean cuisine.
Day 6: Guana Island/Cane Garden Bay to Jost Van Dyke. Sail from Cane Garden Bay to Jost Van Dyke, specifically White Bay (approx. 5 nautical miles). This beach is famous for the Soggy Dollar Bar, home of the original Painkiller cocktail. Spend the day swimming, relaxing, and enjoying the beach bar scene. Great Harbour, a short dinghy ride away, offers more dining options and a chance to experience a different side of Jost Van Dyke.
Day 7: Jost Van Dyke to Tortola (Road Town). A final short sail back to Road Town (approx. 8 nautical miles). Refuel the boat, return it to the charter company, and reminisce about your amazing week of sailing!
Essential Gear and Provisions
Before you set sail, make sure you have all the necessary gear and provisions. Here’s a checklist:
Navigation tools: Charts, compass, GPS, VHF radio (and know how to use it!) Ensure you have updated electronic charts on your chartplotter.
Safety equipment: Life jackets, flares, first-aid kit, air horn, fire extinguishers. Confirm these are all in working order before you leave the dock.
Snorkeling gear: Mask, snorkel, fins. The BVI is a snorkeler’s paradise, so don’t miss out!
Sun protection: Sunscreen (reef-safe!), hats, sunglasses, long-sleeved shirts. The Caribbean sun is intense.
Clothing: Lightweight, quick-drying clothing, swimwear, a light jacket or sweater for cool evenings.
Shoes: Boat shoes or sandals with good grip.
Documents: Passports, sailing licenses, charter agreements, insurance information. Keep copies in a waterproof bag.
Provisions: Food, drinks, water (lots of water!). You can provision your boat in Road Town, but consider pre-ordering your provisions to save time. Many charter companies offer provisioning services. A few local markets offer organic produce, which is not as common as other selections in the BVI.
Cash: While credit cards are widely accepted, it’s always good to have some cash on hand for mooring fees, smaller establishments, and tips.
Entertainment: Books, music, games. For those less-than-perfect weather days!
Choosing the Right Boat: Size and Type
For beginner sailors, a 35-45 foot sailboat is ideal. This size provides ample space and comfort while still being manageable. Catamarans are also popular in the BVI, offering more space and stability, but are also wider which can limit the docks you can tie up to! If you are new to sailing catamarans, take some time to ask lots of questions during your briefing.
Navigation Tips for the Sir Francis Drake Channel
The Sir Francis Drake Channel is generally well-protected and easy to navigate. However, here are some tips:
Pay attention to the navigation markers. They are clearly marked on charts and are essential for avoiding reefs and shallow waters. Ensure there is no plastic or growth on them—especially at night to give accurate feedback from your spotlight.
Be aware of the currents and tides. They can affect your speed and direction.
Monitor the VHF radio for weather updates and important announcements. Channel 16 is the distress channel.
Respect the mooring fields. Use designated mooring balls whenever possible to protect the coral reefs. Always check the condition of the mooring buoy and lines before attaching your boat. An unexpected break in the line can be a stressful experience!
Be mindful of other boats. The channel can get busy, especially during peak season.
Consider using a cruising guide. Books like the Yachtsman’s Guide to the Virgin Islands provide detailed information on anchorages, restaurants, and services.
Anchorages and Mooring Fields: Dos and Don’ts
Choosing the right anchorage is crucial for a comfortable and safe night’s sleep. Here are some tips:
Check the chart for depth and bottom conditions. Sand is generally the best holding ground, while rock and grass can be problematic.
Look for a well-protected anchorage. Consider the prevailing winds and waves.
Set your anchor properly. Use enough scope (the ratio of chain length to water depth) – at least 5:1. After dropping anchor, motor slowly backward to set it firmly.
Be aware of swing room. Make sure you have enough space to swing without hitting other boats or obstacles.
Use mooring balls whenever possible. They are readily available in many popular anchorages. There is usually a fee.
If anchoring, be respectful of other boats. Don’t anchor too close to others, and be mindful of your prop wash when maneuvering.
Avoid anchoring in coral reefs. They are fragile ecosystems that are easily damaged by anchors.
Dispose of waste properly. Never dump trash or sewage overboard. Use designated pump-out facilities.
Keep your boat secure. Lock your dinghy and stow any loose items that could be stolen.
Always have a lookout on deck.
Snorkeling and Diving Hotspots
The BVI offers world-class snorkeling and diving. Here are some of the best spots:
The Caves (Norman Island): Excellent snorkeling in the shallow caves. Look for colorful fish and coral.
The Indians (Norman Island): A series of rock formations teeming with marine life. Good for both snorkeling and diving.
The Baths (Virgin Gorda): Snorkel in the clear water among the giant boulders. Be prepared for crowds during peak season.
Loblolly Bay (Anegada): A shallow reef with abundant fish and coral. Perfect for beginner snorkelers.
RMS Rhone National Park (Salt Island): A famous shipwreck dive site. Snorkelers can also see parts of the wreck in shallower water. This location can have strong currents, so only attempt this spot with an experienced guide or when the conditions are calm.
Wreck of the Chikuzen (off Cooper Island): An intentionally sunk wreck that has become a haven for marine life. A great dive site for all levels.
Onshore Activities and Restaurants
While sailing is the main attraction, don’t forget to explore the islands and sample the local cuisine. Here are some recommendations:
Road Town (Tortola): Explore the capital city, visit the J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens, and shop for souvenirs.
Soggy Dollar Bar (Jost Van Dyke): Enjoy a Painkiller cocktail on the beach.
Foxy’s (Jost Van Dyke): A legendary beach bar with live music and a lively atmosphere.
The Baths (Virgin Gorda): Explore the natural rock formations and swim in the grottoes.
Anegada Lobster Festival (Late November/Early December): A celebration of local cuisine and culture.
Potter’s by the Sea: a local eatery known for its extensive seafood dishes along the waterfront.
Cost Breakdown: What to Expect
Here’s a rough estimate of the costs involved in a one-week BVI sailing trip for a bareboat charter (prices can vary depending on the time of year and the specific boat):
Boat charter: $3,000 – $15,000+ per week (depending on size and age)
Mooring fees: $35 per night (average) or $245 per week
Provisions: $500 – $1,000 (depending on your eating and drinking habits)
Fuel: $200 – $500 (depending on distances sailed)
Water: $50 – $100 (depending on consumption)
National Park fees: $8 per person per park
Customs and immigration fees: Varies depending on entry and exit points
Dockage fees: Varies if docking at marinas.
Miscellaneous expenses: $200 – $500 (for souvenirs, taxis, and other incidentals)
Total: $4,233 – $17,633 + (excluding airfare)
Internet and Communication
While sailing, internet access can be spotty. Some anchorages offer Wi-Fi, but it’s often slow and unreliable. Consider purchasing a local SIM card for your phone or renting a mobile hotspot for more reliable internet access. Remember to check with your mobile provider for international roaming charges. VHF radio remains the most important tool for communication.
Respecting the Environment
The BVI is a beautiful and fragile ecosystem. Please help protect it by following these guidelines:
Use reef-safe sunscreen.
Avoid anchoring in coral reefs.
Dispose of waste properly.
Conserve water.
Respect marine life. Do not feed the fish or touch the coral.
Participate in Eco-Friendly Tours Look for tour operators certified for Eco-friendliness.
FAQ Section
What qualifications do I need to charter a bareboat in the BVI?
To charter a bareboat, you must demonstrate sufficient sailing experience and qualifications to the charter company. They will assess your resume/CV and may require you to complete a sailing test. Recognized certifications are RYA, ASA, NauticEd, or an ICC (International Certificate of Competence). However, sailing experience trumps qualifications in many circumstances. If you prefer, hire a captain for first few days!
What if I get seasick?
Seasickness is a common problem. Prevention is key. Take seasickness medication (like Dramamine or Bonine) before you start sailing. Stay hydrated, avoid greasy foods, and focus on the horizon. Ginger candies or ginger ale can also help. If you start feeling sick, stay on deck where you can get fresh air, and try to steer the boat. Many people find relief simply by taking charge of the helm.
What should I do in case of an emergency?
In case of an emergency, use your VHF radio to call for help on Channel 16. Provide your location, the nature of the emergency, and the number of people on board. If you have a satellite phone, you can use it to call for help. Make sure your crew knows where the safety gear is located and how to use it. Know who to call from shore (local authorities, charter company, etc.).
What are the local customs and laws I should be aware of?
The BVI is a British Overseas Territory, so British laws apply. Dress modestly when visiting towns and villages. Be respectful of local customs and traditions. The legal drinking age is 18. It is illegal to possess or use drugs. Familiarize yourself with the local boating regulations and speed limits. Most harbours also have a no anchoring rule.
Is it safe to drink the water in the BVI?
It is generally not recommended to drink the tap water in the BVI. Stick to bottled water or use a water filter. Most charter boats have water tanks that are filled with treated water, which is generally safe for washing and showering.
What currency is used in the BVI?
The official currency of the BVI is the US dollar (USD). Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always good to have some cash on hand.
Ready to Set Sail?
Sailing the Sir Francis Drake Channel is an unforgettable experience. With careful planning and preparation, even beginner sailors can enjoy the beauty and adventure of the BVI. So, gather your crew, book your boat, and get ready to explore one of the world’s best sailing destinations. What are you waiting for? The turquoise waters are calling!
References
(Note: all links have already been embedded above)
Royal Yachting Association (RYA)
American Sailing Association (ASA)
NauticEd
The Moorings
Sunsail
